One long pitch variation that joins El Diablo route at its first belay. Interesting face climbing on knobs.
At a black stain left of a left facing arch at the center of the El Gaucho Wall look for a bolt. Face climb straight up to the top of the arch. Tend left then up a sea of knobs to a bolt belay. Continue up El Diablo route to the top.
Light rack, bolts and slings for knobs.
From: Golden, CO
Nov 1, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No gear needed. Just 4-5 slings and a couple draws. Thought the traverse was much harder than 5.9 though. An 80m rope might get you down.
|By Richard Shore|
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
A very nice climb. Thoughtful and engaging. Anywhere else, this thing would be a **** classic (I give it 4 only to offset the OP's 1 star). Only one detractor in my opinion...
The FA party skipped a good stance for a bolt right before the crux. As is, you have to do the crux moves ~15' out left (horizontal) from the 4th bolt. A fall from here would be disastrous; a huge pendulum across a face full of knobs and smack into the corner below. No reason not to give this one the dreaded "R." I'll agree with the Croft/Lewis guide rating here, 5.9 leader will need a change of underwear.
2 ropes to rappel. Long slings on the 4th and 5th bolts (start and end of traverse) will help with rope drag up higher.