Inknobvious Line 5.9
| 508 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Mark Uphus, Bill Cramer and Chuck Bowker, June 1990 |
| Submitted By: | BCramer on May 2, 2007 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: Whitney Portal, El Gaucho Wall (center), Inknobvio...
Add Photo  Printer View
Description One long pitch variation that joins El Diablo route at its first belay. Interesting face climbing on knobs.
Location At a black stain left of a left facing arch at the center of the El Gaucho Wall look for a bolt. Face climb straight up to the top of the arch. Tend left then up a sea of knobs to a bolt belay. Continue up El Diablo route to the top.
Protection Light rack, bolts and slings for knobs.
| Comments on Inknobvious Line |
|
By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
Nov 1, 2011
rating: 5.10b
| No gear needed. Just 4-5 slings and a couple draws. Thought the traverse was much harder than 5.9 though. An 80m rope might get you down. |
By Richard Shore
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b R
| A very nice climb. Thoughtful and engaging. Anywhere else, this thing would be a **** classic (I give it 4 only to offset the OP's 1 star). Only one detractor in my opinion...
The FA party skipped a good stance for a bolt right before the crux. As is, you have to do the crux moves ~15' out left (horizontal) from the 4th bolt. A fall from here would be disastrous; a huge pendulum across a face full of knobs and smack into the corner below. No reason not to give this one the dreaded "R." I'll agree with the Croft/Lewis guide rating here, 5.9 leader will need a change of underwear.
2 ropes to rappel. Long slings on the 4th and 5th bolts (start and end of traverse) will help with rope drag up higher. |
|
RSS Feed
82 more...
Slideshow