|By Wilson On The Drums
From Woodbury, MN
Feb 15, 2013
I've been nursing a finger injury for about a month now, very similar to the one described in the thread "Injury Advice for Tightness in Hand and Forearm" and I'm getting restless sitting on my couch taking it easy. With that said I was wondering a couple of things about the MP community.
First, how many of you have been injured? How many injuries? What kind of injury? Did you self medicate/self physical therapy, or did you see a doctor/specialist? Did the injury require surgery? How many surgeries have you had? How long did it take for a given injury to heal?
Second, after the recovery how has your climbing been? Did you improve? Did you have to adapt different techniques? Have you re-injure the same body part?
Within my first 6 months of climbing I dislocated my right shoulder 3 times. It was due to a previous shoulder strain that loosened my ligaments enough to make it unstable. I was very naive. I had just gotten into climbing and was hooked, I didn't want to slow down. I ended up having surgery on the said shoulder, a bankart repair, I had torn 50% of my labrum off. It took me 8 months until I was on the rock again. I was stronger than before and learned how to rely much more on good footing. I noticed that my left shoulder would be sore versus my right, which I believe was the result of some overcompensation.
Now here I am, good shoulders, feeling good, redpointing my best, onsighting my best, getting some really proud (for me) boulder problem sends, and POP. My left hand ring finger blows. The ortho DR I saw said I'm fine, no rips/tears/ruptures, just a pretty good strain. I'm resting and taking it easy, but I'm bored and restless.
Let me hear your stories of encouragement and overcoming your injuries.