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Injury Accident at Red Slab, Rock Canyon
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By Tristan Higbee
From Cambodia
Mar 25, 2008
Me on a mixed route Crisco and I did in Rock Canyon.

Yeah, I was up on Superbowl Wall when we heard blood curdling screams coming from the other side of the canyon. I was racking up and my parter said something about a guy on Red Slab being upside down. Here's a picture I took of the rescue in action:



Note the 9ish cop cars... Tax dollars at work, eh? I blew up the portion of the image with people (Perrin and company) carrying the litter down.

-Tristan


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By Stymingersfink
Mar 25, 2008
Redtail Hawk, circling nest 40' up the tower at Anderson Pass

"so... what if i don't have enough draws for the route?"

"don't worry... your faith in god will keep you safe."

"um.. what if my faith waivers?"

"no worries then, either... SAR requires no faith, just a cell signal!"







spring is nearly here, i suppose the requisite increase in n-00-b incidents are slated to arrive as well.


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By atrau
May 13, 2008

I only glanced over this thread and saw a little discussion about rap cleaning. I started to skim through some of the posts. I rap clean nearly everything, don't have much of a choice most of the time more of a soloist myself. In the posts that I skimmed through I did not see anyone mention a third hand, which should be used whenever you rappel, at least I always use one, and most of the multi-pitch and big wall climbers that I know do as well.

Also I think the criminal thing is not the fact the route was rap cleaned, the culprit is people who learn to climb indoors and never pick up any of the great books we have on how to build anchors, climbing, or a self rescue book. Knowledge is power there is no reason for a great many of the things I see going on in the Utah valley area to be gong on, this is of course a complete other discussion.

I apologize about bring up an old post, and any spelling errors I made have made.

Rob Schwarzmann


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By lilnoobs
Jul 15, 2014

I just want to add that I think the indoor climbing community could help educate people about a lot of these outdoor issues (rap, clipping, cleaning, etc). At my local gyms, the employees won't even let you touch the lead rope (even just to the second bolt) without taking their 'certification', which usually requires classes at odd hours and a hefty down payment. So how am I to show my wife about back-clipping and z-clipping? How are we to practice clipping from different angles? My local gyms don't even have eyelets at chest height, to safely practice cleaning with.


So since people often can not "learn" to do many of these techniques in the safety of the gym, they have no choice but to practice them outside. I find this situation absurd, and I think the indoor climbing community holds a great amount of responsibility for these outdoor accidents.

Like my wife replied after a few run-ins with various employees at various gyms, "I guess the only place people can practice is outside".


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By Ammon Perkes
From Provo, Utah
Jul 15, 2014

Yeah, although incidentally Provo's local gym does that pretty well. They have eyelets on the wall for practicing cleaning and such, and bolts on all the top rope walls, which allows for mock-leading routes (which is how I first learned). Certification is free (as long as you pass the first time), and they have classes if you are willing to drop a reasonable sum of cash. All this to say, in this case, I'm not sure the gym is to blame here. (Although, I did teach my friend to lead belay outside today. It was a little terrifying.)


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By kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Jul 15, 2014
Why I do it...

lilnoobs wrote:
"I guess the only place people can practice is outside".


Outside is a great place to practice. Remember that rock climbing has been around long before climbing gyms. Walk up to a clif/rock/underpass/tree/chain link fence and build a 2 or 3 point anchor at chest height. You can even walk side to side and clip quickdraws to the chain link fence and have your partner belay you. (I know it takes a little imagination to transfer a horizontal experience into a vertical one, but practicing rock craft on a windy day can help you feel like your up high.) Don't forget youtube is a great resource to watch how to climb, rap, and clean. If your wonderful wife is like mine, (tire change=rocket science) this horizontal to vertical transference may be too hard of a concept to grasp. In that case head on over to the baseball field and climb up the chain link backstop a few feet. Once you see the light bulb flash above her head, then you can begin to keep things on the ground.
DISCLAIMER; This comment may appear demeaning to women. It was not intended to be such. It was written for the benefit of anyone who is "spacial relation" challenged. If you are offended, please remember this is the internet.
tinyurl.com/kvxht54




Just don't be like this guy. You can still die in your backyard.
It's a guy cutting down a tree in his backyard.
The cops showed up, telling the guy he couldn't do what he was doing.
He told them to go to he-- it's his property and his tree.


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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Jul 16, 2014

Wait what? You joined MP to resurrect an 6 year old thread because you have a problem with how gyms price their product and manage risk in this very litigious world. Gym's are businesses formed in the hopes of making a bit of making money and operated in a manner that will keep them from losing a lawsuit.
Complaining about having to be certified "at odd hours and with hefty down payments" is silly.

Unsure of where lilnoobs lives but here in SLC Momentum has excellent indoor and outdoor climbing programs. Instructors are willing to work with students schedules for indoor offerings. They also offers many opportunities to climb outside with guides that work both in the gym and outdoors with Red River Adventures.
In addition gym members or day clients are always welcome to "mock lead" at any time.

The Inside/Out series, 2.5 day clinics, started in 2013 starts with an evening in the gym and then heads outside for a weekend of climbing and instruction. In 2014 Inside/Out has climbed in Red Rock, NV, Maple Canyon and The Wasatch. Fall offerings are slated for The Wasatch, Maple Canyon, Moab/Indian Creek and Red Rock, NV.

As Kevin mentioned there are numerous ways to practice clipping. Fences, stair rails, trees, etc.
Further more there are numerous areas that exist now in The Wastach that have been bolted at gym or tighter spacing.

Trolled? probably.


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