Serious Leader Fall on Dark Shadows, Red Rock Canyon, NV

Serious Leader Fall on Dark Shadows, Red Rock Canyon, NV

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On Saturday 3/12/2011, at approximately 1PM there occurred a serious leader fall on the lower section of the third pitch (the long 5.8 corner) of the route Dark Shadows on the Mescalito Formation in the Pine Creek Canyon area of Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

There was one party above and one party below on the route, I was anchored just right of the Dark Shadows belay ledge at the anchor of Slot Machine (instead of rappelling to the Dark Shadows anchors). I saw about the last 5 feet of the fall up until impact. It was extremely disturbing.

A person in the party above was a doctor and one person below was a nurse. Those two parties worked tirelessly to stabilize the injured climber and set up anchors needed to bring up rescue personnel. It took about 1-2 hours for the first rescuer to arrive as the narrow canyon and trees made it difficult for the helicopter to do much. I think they were able to drop off people and gear bit by bit at about the halfway point on the trail (I waited at the Slot Machine anchor with a partner until it was confirmed that we would not be needed for assistance immediately, and watched the helicopter make several passes seemingly landing on the trail a few times).

After another hour or so and after about 3 more SAR personnel arrived they built a setup of anchors and pulleys using trees and boulders on the ground. Luckily we had extra ropes and plenty of people on the ground to assist with hauling a rescuer and litter up to the ledge. It could have taken several more hours to get more gear and people in. When the climber was in the litter, he was lowered with the rescuer and several of us helped pull the litter away from the water and carried it up to a point where the helicopter could drop a line and evacuate the patient by air (about 100 ft up the trail through rocky terrain). From fall to helicopter lift, the whole event took about 6-8 hours.

The information flow suggests that the leader was about 30 ft above the belay ledge with insufficient protection and slipped while trying to place gear, dropping the gear and landing on the small ledge just above the belay -- sideways, right side down. It does not appear that any gear failed. There was some talk about the rock being slick or wet, or there being a spring in the crack. I don't remember any spring or wetness, but do recall some slick black rock. There is a stream at the base, so maybe a wet rope could have contributed, but this is pure speculation on my part. I remember being quite gripped at that lower crux, but am pretty sure I was able to place enough protection to stay off the ledge. I remember specifically looking at the ledge and thinking to myself that I need to place lots of pro at the start. The pro was more sparse at the start where the crack was wide and a bit dirty, but I am pretty sure that at about 10 ft above the ledge many protection options begin to appear. However, it is all a bit hazy.

I was told that the injury consists of a fractured leg and vertebrae with likely paralysis as a result. Although more tests were needed, and I don't know the current status.

In many ways, the climber is very lucky to have so many people around to assist with the rescue.

Please send your thoughts and prayers. My sincerest wishes to the friends and family of those directly affected, and great thanks to everyone who helped with the rescue.

I hesitated to post this, hoping that someone else would, but I feel we all benefit as a community by studying the details of accidents. Please be careful out there.

If anyone is missing gear/ropes from this accident, this person appears to have found ropes:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2474912;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;page=unread#unread

I know there was at least one stuck rope on the route. I don't know for certain about any other gear, but most likely this gear belongs to the injured climber or one of the other parties involved. I'll pass on the info if I am able to get ahold of anyone. Thanks.

ugh- positive thoughts go out.

yikes- was wondering about all the sirens and choppers that day.

Thanks for the write up, hope he recovers ok.

Hey Joseph,

I was leading the 2nd pitch when the leader above fell, and was on the ledge with them the whole time. You and your friend were great, hanging out on the ledge over there for hours in case we needed your help. Thank you both so much for your support there and on the ground afterward. I can't really say much about the climber who fell, I don't know him personally and want to protect his privacy, but this certainly confirmed for me that it always pays to place gear early and often, especially at the beginning of a pitch. I think it also inspired me to take a more serious course in rock rescue. I would like to have been even more confident that I could get someone so seriously injured down without the help of Search and Rescue if I needed.

Thanks again Joseph. Keep on climbing!

I'm glad there was so many people available to help this guy out. Thoughts to his family and friends.

Thanks for the report, we were wondering what happened.

Best Wishes to the injured for a speedy recovery.

I have lead that corner twice and it is very slick, I was a chicken and placed way too much gear, There is plenty of gear to be had.

Be careful out there y'all, place pro early and often!