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Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life
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Beamer Up Scotty T 
Buick, The T 
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Initial Route T 
Pooh Belly T,TR 
Unknown Face S 
Yo Mama Osama T,TR 

Initial Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: George Bracksieck & Doug Hill, 1975?
Page Views: 978
Submitted By: Scott Conner on Feb 17, 2002

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First pitch of Initial Route.

CLOSED for 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This enjoyable 2 pitch route is on the southwest face of Hitler's Sex Life. It doesn't appear to get climbed much. The route begins beneath the low point/left end of the horizontal seam. Pitch 1 is about 50% traverse.P1. Work up into the seam and follow it up and to the right until it ends at an A-shaped slot with a shallow vertical crack. Follow this crack up (crux) about six feet to a sloping ledge. Be sure to place a piece here to protect your follower from a BIG swing, and continue farther right about 15 ft. to a nice belay. (~150ft) P2. Go straight up shallow seams on difficult-to-protect 5.5ish terrain and continue up into an accute corner. Pull out of the top of the corner/roof and continue up a vegetated crack, through a blocky section and to the top. (~90ft)

Descent: Walk off.

Protection 

Small to medium cams and a set of stoppers; long slings will be helpful to cut down on rope drag.


Photos of Initial Route Slideshow Add Photo
Turning the arete - second pitch crux.
Turning the arete - second pitch crux.
Good look at the entire route.  Second pitch goes through the cleft right of the large slanted roof.
Good look at the entire route. Second pitch goes ...
Second following up the crux.
Second following up the crux.
Crux - first pitch.
Crux - first pitch.
Finishing up the second pitch.  Nice climb!
Finishing up the second pitch. Nice climb!

Comments on Initial Route Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Dec 13, 2003

This route is more like a one star in my mind. It has lots of lose gravely sections. The traverse pitch is probably the only worthwhile pitch on the route. It also feels a bit harder than 5.7.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2005

I managed to lead this as one 60m pitch but it barely reached. I'm not sure I would recommend doing it as one pitch. The rock quality definitely deteriorates toward the top.
By George Bracksieck
Jul 13, 2012

For what it's worth, which isn't much, I and Doug Hill climbed this in 1975... except that we continued up to the top of the upper, prominent, left-facing, left-leaning dihedral and then right, up the crack in a groove on the summit "ridge."
By Addison
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 27, 2012

Really fun undercling traverse, BUT awful pro at roof crux on first pitch. Traverse alone deserves two stars... (#6 BD nut will fit into the crux like a glove).