Inhibitor 5.11a PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Tom Souders, Jeff Koenig, Ron Snyder, 8/'83 |
| Season: | Faces South, but gets early and late shade. |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Feb 10, 2007 |
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Looking up this Stellar crack..
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Description A classic climb, love it or leave it. Both the technical difficulty of and physical effort required for this climb are body-size dependent.
I've heard so many comments about the likely use of a stealth-rubber wet suit, a full-body tape glove, king-kong handjams, etc... to know it isn't just me that thinks this is a workout. It is more physical than technical, I guess, because it seems that most people who try it make it, but everyone always says how hard it was.
Start in a thin hands crack and work your way up to a wide spot. Spend quite some considerable effort trying to get into the crack here, then consider that it's going to be equally hard to get right back out of it in just another 5 meters more. Jam the fists to off-fists section above the squeeze and then cruise to the top on better jams. This climb favors those with larger fists and forearms but not those with big chests. Leave your helmet off or suffer.
Location From the approach to the main wall on Sky Bridge, head right past the first wall encountered to a strange little rock house the size of a garage with a hole through the "artificial ceiling" in the right rear corner (the Underling) and then continue right another 20 meters past some big boulders to an opposing set of corners over roofs. THe left-facing corner on the right is "Inhibitor."
Protection Well,a little heads-up in places, but protected at the cruxes. Take a #4 camalot, plus one truly big cam.
the start
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The thin hands start.
Photo by Teresa Nagle.
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Wicked steep...
Photo by Teresa Nagle.
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What a gorgeous route...
Photo by Teresa Nagle.
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By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Jun 15, 2007
rating: 5.11b
| Taped hands for the bottom crack make it less painful. Also, I'm sure I would've fallen off at the beginning of the offwidth/chimney section if I hadn't find a little handhold on the left inside wall of the crack. Makes it easier. |
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 17, 2007
| One of the finest pitches of crackclimbing I have done. It is made even better in that it is found smack dab in the middle of sportclimbing disneyland. I found no need for anything larger than a #4 Camelot although one could easily find spots to place larger cams. The overhanging hands finish is simply fantastic. |
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.11-
| GREAT climbing...this is truly a stellar route. The upper jam crack stymied me twice...
Just like the guidebook says...it takes a #4 C4 to protect the move into the squeeze, a #5 C4 above your head to protect the move out (clip it long), and hand- and fist-sized cams for the rest.
I'd also recommend keeping your right hip free of gear... |
By Lorenzo de Amicis
Jan 20, 2013
| Beautiful climb and definitely not P-13. All moves can be protected and you don't need anything bigger than a 5 for getting out of the squeeze chimney. I HIGHLY recommend it. |
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