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Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route 

Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Trad, Snow, Alpine
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 9,202
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 23, 2006

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Ingraham Glacier from DC Route

Description 


From Paradise, take Skyline Trail and Snowfield Route to Camp Muir. All climbing above this point requires a permit.
From Camp Muir, head across the Cowlitz Glacier to Cathedral Ridge. Pass through one of the three notches on the ridge. Usually the center notch.
Climb scree to the ridgecrest and on to the Ingraham Glacier.
Cross the Ingraham Glacier to Disappointment Cleaver. Follow this to a snowfield and wander to the top.

This is the most popular route on the mountain and the normal route of the guide service. It is usually a well worn trail to the summit.

Descend by same route.

All climbers must register at the Ranger Station.


Location 

From Paradise (5557'), take the Skyline trail and Snowfield route to Camp Muir.

Protection 

Warm and foul weather clothing, headlamp, ice axe, rope, crampons and whatever other safety gear that you desire.


Photos of Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route Slideshow Add Photo
Crossing the Ingraham Glacier in late season
Crossing the Ingraham Glacier in late season
Lost in the storm. Photo by Blitzo.
Lost in the storm. Photo by Blitzo.
Ingrahm flats campground (middle right) seen from ...
Ingrahm flats campground (middle right) seen from ...
Camp Muir-August 1975. Photo by Blitzo.
Camp Muir-August 1975. Photo by Blitzo.
Ingraham Glacier. Photo: Blitzo collection.
Ingraham Glacier. Photo: Blitzo collection.
Emmons Glacier from Camp Muir.
BETA PHOTO: Emmons Glacier from Camp Muir.
Little Tahoma from DC Route
Little Tahoma from DC Route
Paul Deagle - Camp Muir
Paul Deagle - Camp Muir
The slog to Muir Camp
The slog to Muir Camp
Ingraham Glacier
BETA PHOTO: Ingraham Glacier
above DC
above DC
Disappointment Cleaver from Ingraham Glacier
BETA PHOTO: Disappointment Cleaver from Ingraham Glacier
High on the DC route at sunrise, almost to the sum...
High on the DC route at sunrise, almost to the sum...
Cathedral gap
BETA PHOTO: Cathedral gap
On the crater rim. "See you around the bend&q...
On the crater rim. "See you around the bend&q...
Paul Deagle - Little Tahoma
Paul Deagle - Little Tahoma
Rainier
Rainier
My. Rainier Descent
My. Rainier Descent

Comments on Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blitzo
Aug 25, 2010

Basically a trail to the top.
By Gill
From: minden, nevada
Sep 5, 2011

Is the Ingraham direct or the disappointment cleaver climbed in late April at all?

Has anyone done it then?

Any advice on the subject would be helpful.

I can't climb it in the summer because of work.
By Dan Spirgen
From: orem, ut
Jun 25, 2013

This is the route that most people take on guided trips. Easiest way up. Amazing view. Not really technical other than the risk of falling in to a crevasse.
By RustyLane
From: Minneapolis
Jan 5, 2014

Not always about how technical or hard, its about the journey.