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Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route 

Mod. Snow

   
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Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine
FA: Unknown
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
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Ingraham Glacier.
Photo: Blitzo collection.


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Description 


From Paradise, take Skyline Trail and Snowfield Route to Camp Muir. All climbing above this point requires a permit.
From Camp Muir, head across the Cowlitz Glacier to Cathedral Ridge. Pass through one of the three notches on the ridge. Usually the center notch.
Climb scree to the ridgecrest and on to the Ingraham Glacier.
Cross the Ingraham Glacier to Disappointment Cleaver. Follow this to a snowfield and wander to the top.

This is the most popular route on the mountain and the normal route of the guide service. It is usually a well worn trail to the summit.

Descend by same route.

All climbers must register at the Ranger Station.


Location 

From Paradise (5557'), take the Skyline trail and Snowfield route to Camp Muir.


Protection 

Warm and foul weather clothing, headlamp, ice axe, rope, crampons and whatever other safety gear that you desire.



Photos of Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route Slideshow Add Photo
The slog to Muir Camp

The slog to Muir Camp

Camp Muir-August 1975. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Camp Muir-August 1975.
Photo by Blitzo.


Lost in the storm. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Lost in the storm.
Photo by Blitzo.


Ingrahm flats campground (middle right) seen from the Emmons Glacier variation of the DC route.  Ingrahm flats is a much more desirable campground compared to camp Muir.  (eg: doesn't smell like sewage)

Ingrahm flats campground (middle right) seen from ...

DC Route

DC Route

Little Tahoma from DC Route

Little Tahoma from DC Route

Ingraham Glacier from DC Route

Ingraham Glacier from DC Route

High on the DC route at sunrise, almost to the summit

High on the DC route at sunrise, almost to the sum...

On the crater rim. "See you around the bend"

On the crater rim. "See you around the bend"

Rainier

Rainier

Ingraham Glacier

BETA PHOTO: Ingraham Glacier

Emmons Glacier from Camp Muir.

BETA PHOTO: Emmons Glacier from Camp Muir.

Disappointment Cleaver from Ingraham Glacier

BETA PHOTO: Disappointment Cleaver from Ingraham Glacier

Crossing the Ingraham Glacier in late season

Crossing the Ingraham Glacier in late season

Cathedral gap

BETA PHOTO: Cathedral gap

above DC

above DC

Paul Deagle - Little Tahoma

Paul Deagle - Little Tahoma

Paul Deagle - Camp Muir

Paul Deagle - Camp Muir


Comments on Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route Add Comment
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By Blitzo
Aug 25, 2010

Basically a trail to the top.

By Gill
From: minden, nevada
Sep 5, 2011

Is the Ingraham direct or the disappointment cleaver climbed in late April at all?

Has anyone done it then?

Any advice on the subject would be helpful.

I can't climb it in the summer because of work.