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Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands 
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I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus 
Inflight Movie 
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Inflight Movie 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Burns, Fehlau, 1989
Page Views: 549
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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On the lower part of the route. March 2010.

Description 

One of the longer BTONP routes, with no dirt-covered rock. This route begins right on the E face of the double-arete buttress that juts out into the trail. This route has been described as both funky and weird in various guidebooks, but I'm not sure why. The crux (~5th bolt) is not especially obvious, but there's no rose move, overhead heel hooking, figure 4's or even figure 9's.

A short boulder problem gains the excellent face. 11- moves lead up, and noticably left. Around the 4th bolt you may find yourself on the left arete, closer to SA's bolts than this route's. You should be on the right arete at this point, and may need to traverse straight right to achieve this. A good rest from a triangular hold right on the prow sets you up for the sequential, 4-move crux. A few improving edges lead to big jugs and a casual, runout stroll to the chains.


Location 

The second bolted route from the left. Begins 2 feet right of Scandinavian Airlines, and 6 feet left of Monsterpiece Theater.


Protection 

6 bolts, shared 2 BA with Monsterpiece Theater. There's a bit of a runout from the last bolt to the anchor on 5.7 terrain.



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By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Apr 18, 2008

Just looking through old notes: the first three bolts on this route were placed on lead. The other three were placed on rappel.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jan 5, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I would agree with Mono about this route being quite good; it climbs without any of the awkwardness that is suggested in the books. Good rock and good movement; perhaps a bit easier than Monsterpiece. Thanks to whoever replaced the upper hardware on this thing.

By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Aug 27, 2013

Jason Halladay probably replaced the old gear. He's been a hero in terms of getting White Rock really equipped.