Inflictor 5.12-
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Toby cruxing on Inflictor
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Description This is the thin finger and tips crack in between Rock Lobster and Polygrip. It's often toproped and my understanding is that it's only seen a couple leads.
Location Thin crack in between Rock Lobster and Polygrip. Shares anchor with Polygrip, but is commonly toproped from anchors on Rock Lobster.
Protection Thin stuff up to 1.5 Friend, heavy in tips and finger sizes.
Sustained fingers.
| Racing shadows
| Inflictor
| at the top before sunset
| Matt Pesce climbing in style
| |
By Michael Sokoloff From: Spokane, WA Apr 1, 2008
| I agree that this route is most often toproped. I have lead it and know of multiple others who have as well. Pro is safe and plentiful. It actually takes stoppers in multiple places. My guess is that it has seem more than the "couple" leads the original poster claims it's seem. |
By chris Kalous Mar 9, 2009
| So...if we fix up some anchors on this cliff with chains and such, would anybody freak if this got its own anchor? Running the rope off of Rock Lobster or Polygrip seems to have caused a hell of a lot more damage than a couple bolts would have. |
By Ol' Toby From: CO Mar 22, 2009 rating: 5.12a/b
| Unlikely that this has seen few leads as the crack takes great gear. I found this to be an .11+ finger crack with a definite crux section where the crack pinches to tips, then beautiful .11 fingers to the top. The only detraction is that one could stem/reach to the Rock Lobster crack at key points, making the direct line slightly contrived. Still a beautiful line offering great climbing. I support adding independent anchors to this line. Definitely good enough and toproping from either of the other anchors is causing obvious drag marks on the rock. |
By Nick Stayner From: The Magic City Nov 17, 2010 rating: 5.12-
| Like a longer Puma. |
By Gaar From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab May 4, 2011
| Went straight for it on lead..NTB gear down low is kinda wierd, but takes nuts great. super fun with good movement. A few times I wanted to step over to RL and finish on that, but hung in there instead. 5.11 |
By Matt Pesce From: moab, ut. Dec 15, 2012 rating: 5.12b
| this is one where size really does matter...only smaller is better ! this was one of the hardest .12- ive done. |
By Matt Pesce From: moab, ut. Dec 15, 2012 rating: 5.12b
| I agree with the anchor comments...really could have its own anchor. this would help with the rope grooves. |
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