|1,274 page views|
This bit is easier for average to taller folks and...
This was named for the 2 wasps seen in a crack at the start. (No wasps were harmed during the ascent).
Begin in a flared dihedral and follow 5 bolts passing a very small pine bush. Some supplemental gear may be needed.
This is on the far right side of cliff, about 30 feet right of Splash. It is just left of a large flake.
5 bolts plus finger-sized cam before 1st bolt and red Alien size after 2nd bolt.
The anchor is same as for Monte Carlo (route to the right).
|By Chris Plesko|
From: Westminster, CO
May 26, 2011
If you're short this could be 5.9 and a spicy first clip (we didn't bother with a cam), but if you're 5'10"+, just stem and use your feet and it's pretty easy to get to the jug out left. I practically had a no hands stance below the reach.
From: Sheffield, UK
Jul 15, 2011
Make sure you don't think this is Chouette, which is not in the Boulder Canyon guide. I managed to convince myself that it was. Oops.
One could just go for the first bolt without placing gear behind the (awkward) left-facing crack, as suggested, just don't fall -- it will be uncomfortable, and the start is technical. A small cam makes this start less scary.
Also, I didn't place a second cam above the 2nd bolt, and felt safe, whatever that's worth. The first 20' is 5.9, the remainder is 5.5-5.7.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2011
Hard first move or two, then 5.6-7 or so climbing the rest of the way.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 11, 2012
FWIW, this had been climbed at least by 2001 if not earlier.
|By John Tex|
From: Boulder CO
Mar 19, 2013
There is some really nice holds at the first clip with one of the harder moves of the route getting to them. If you just stem and find the good feet, it shouldn't be a problem without some additional gear. There is another crimpy crux move later on that is well protected but definitely goes along with the rating in my opinion.
One of the better protected routes on the crag for someone without a trad rack. If you can make the first bolt, then the rest of it is doable without a rack. Don't think the wasp nest made it through the winter.
|By Eric Klammer|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 23, 2013
Hardest moves are getting off the ground. A wet start and confusion as to which route we were actually on made the crux a little harder than necessary. Probably 5.9 if you climb it right. Pro at the start is recommended if only to keep you from taking your partner down the hill if you fall....