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Atlantis Area
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Inferno 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 380'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: B. Anderson and W. Christian Aug 1972
Page Views: 5,935
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 2, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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Joshua nearing the tree belay ledge atop Inferno's...

Description 

Though it is a classic route on its own, the upper pitches are more perfect than the first, and I recommend Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to the ledge and finishing on the last 2 pitches of Inferno, this is THE classic link up on this part of the cliff. The true beginning is fun but a little wandering, not following a distinct feature. We will start from there though.

Pitch 0: Scramble on to the ledge below Atlantis. Scramble right then back left till you are comfortable on the ledge.

Pitch 1: (5.7) Climb up a groove, then on to a flake, and work your way left passing a pin and joining the big corner on the left for a few feet. Follow the crack to belay near a small tree. 130 FT.

Pitch 2: (5.4) Scramble left to gain a big tree ledge and walk along the ledge till you are under a beautiful crack system. Belay from here.

Pitch 3: (5.8) Follow a flake up past small tree until you can move left to a perfect crack. Jam this awesome crack to a belay ledge with a small tree. This crack is one of the best at the grade in the White Mountains. 100 ft.

Pitch 4: (5.8) Traverse left 10 feet to a steep flake system heading up and right, follow this to a few more exciting moves to the top of the cliff.

Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined as one long pitch but care must be taken to avoid rope drag. Most people just do them separately but I like the link up.

Rap with 2 ropes to the tree ledge, then another two rope rap to the ground.


Location 

Starts under the left-facing, corner system of Atlantis (5.10b). Wandering up a less than vertical face to the ledge before walking left for the upper pitches.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Inferno Slideshow Add Photo
Another great view of the stellar hand crack at the top of the 3rd pitch of Inferno
Another great view of the stellar hand crack at th...
Me bro Evan on Inferno's classic hand crack
Me bro Evan on Inferno's classic hand crack
Looking climbers left along the traverse that starts the 4th pitch of Inferno.  The tree is probably PPP more than anything, don't look too close at it.
Looking climbers left along the traverse that star...
Chinos representing atop Inferno.
Chinos representing atop Inferno.
On the last pitch of Inferno.
On the last pitch of Inferno.
Joshua Corbett follows Inferno's crack pitch.
Joshua Corbett follows Inferno's crack pitch.
First pitch of Inferno, as best i could figure out.  Follow the line of the rope to the right then back left.  Route finding was a bit difficult.
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Inferno, as best i could figure out...
Topping out on Inferno on a perfect late autumn day. <br />
Topping out on Inferno on a perfect late autumn da...
Ryan getting into the obvious crack on P2 (done as 3 pitches total)
Ryan getting into the obvious crack on P2 (done as...
Joshua Corbett atop the Hotter Than Hell/Inferno link up.
Joshua Corbett atop the Hotter Than Hell/Inferno l...
Comments on Inferno Add Comment
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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 14, 2008

If not the best trad 5.8 in the state then I don't know what is.

By Chris Norfolk
From: Fredericton, New Brunswick
Jan 5, 2010

Agreed. Don't miss this climb.

By Larry S
Jul 7, 2010

Finding it: If you're standing below some blankish slabs with a bolt or two, you're too low, head left then scramble right onto the ledge.

P1 seems really contrived and is a bit difficult to follow. Just keep looking for the path of least resistance trending right then back left to the vertical section of the arching roof-crack. There was a small wasp nest in the bottom of the flake midway up as of early july, so be careful. Found 1 piton, 1 ratty fixed tricam, and a freshly fixed #1 camalot. Run it all the way to the trees on the ledge, no reason to stop and make it two pitches.

P2 - Awesome, 4 stars. Follow the obvious crack above the ledge.

P3 - Follow cracks and flakes starting left of the belay to a mantle at the top.

Descent - Walk left to a tree with slings and rings. Do two 2-rope rappels. If you only have one rope and you trust it enough, there is a single bolt with a quick-link in the middle of the first rap and a tree in the middle of the second.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Aug 21, 2010

Just did the HTH to Inferno link up today and WOW! Great face climbing up crimps on HTH and an absolutely STELLAR crack up Inferno. It seems like it would be easy to do the top two pitches of Inferno in one shot... but the 3rd pitch belay ledge is such a nice position you might as well take a minute and appreciate the fantastic crack you just climbed.

By Keyan P
From: Burlington, VT
Jun 26, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R

Found it to be more like 3 pitches, as P2 is just walking climbers left to a belay tree. Great climbing for the whole route, but P1 was most definitely R, fairly secure face climbing with thinly spaced gear and big fall potential until reaching the Atlantis corner.

By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

It is possible to walk off left its not bad at all, we did it yesterday with our TC Pros on in wet conditions with ease

By Ryan Nelling
Aug 9, 2013

Came up to this from Hotter Than Hell - awesome link-up. I climbed this in one pitch - just sling the tree & extend it, clip the fixed piece long, and get to the top! Someone had left a rap anchor on the tree right above where this tops out, I guess it was dark, or they were unaware of the rappel 40 feet to climber's left.

By Paul LaFontaine
Nov 5, 2013

climbed pitch one of Inferno yesterday and would agree with some of the posters that the first pitch deserves an R rating. The climbing was not difficult but the confidence inspiring pro was limited and seemed like some long run outs until reaching the Atlantis corner, which gobbles up gear.