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Devil Dog Spire
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Industrial Disease T 

Industrial Disease 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Scott Reynold, Max Kendall, Oct 1986
Season: Spring, summer, or Fall
Page Views: 959
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Sep 3, 2007

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Entering the wideness...

  • Cannot climb it from Jan1-Jun30 due to Cliffchickens MORE INFO >>>
  • Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The guide books say a single set of friends for this... Thats possible, but its also possible to solo it.... just don't.

    P1 = The first pitch is the business. Climb a soft OW section with no gear to your first placement... like 10- for 20 ft. Continue up a degrading crack that varies from fingers to armbars. A pin protects the widest section. It looks easy because the wall is featured, but the reality is that the rock is so soft you could skate off at anytime. The crux is transitioning into fingers from the bombay, though there are a number of hard sections. After about 170 ft. you reach a ledge with a pin and a horizontal that takes friends (3-3.5). You want a cordolette to string it together.
    P2 = Climb out a bulge on handjams... its fun. The pitch is only about 25 feet to the anchor. With lots of slings you could run these two together, but there would be drag issues. Best to break it up.
    P3 = from the anchor do a boulder problem, soft, to the summit, then down climb. It's about 15 feet.

    1 big rap on two 60's puts you back at the base. The Arches Task Force replaced the anchors with ASCA 1/2 inchers and chain in September of 07.

    Location 

    North face of Devil Dog Spire in Arches National Park

    Protection 

    When I can get a couple solid pieces together in Entrada, I like to do so. That means a double rack might work, but we used up most of a triple.
    Friends .75-3.5 X 3 each
    4 - 6 two each
    You need two 60's to get down


    Photos of Industrial Disease Slideshow Add Photo
    The offwidth/squeeze is deceptively steep.
    The offwidth/squeeze is deceptively steep.
    The route... this is taken fromt he car.
    The route... this is taken fromt he car.
    Jason Lantz at the belay above pitch two.
    Jason Lantz at the belay above pitch two.
    Ben Kiessel getting started on pitch one.
    Ben Kiessel getting started on pitch one.
    Starting the second pitch.
    Starting the second pitch.

    Comments on Industrial Disease Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ben Kiessel
    Sep 4, 2007

    When I looked up at this I thought it would easily go free. 10' off the ground I realized that I was on entrada and that getting to the top would require pulling on lots of gear. The view from the summit was beautiful!
    By Brad Brandewie
    Sep 6, 2007

    When Ben and I did this climb last year, we were the 10th ascent of the tower.

    We saw a few familiar names in the register including Jason Keith who had topped out for his 100th desert tower!
    By Max Kendall
    From: Ouray, CO
    Sep 12, 2008

    I think Scott Reynolds and I thought this was a 5.10 route on the first ascent. No way it is 5.11+.
    By Ben Kiessel
    Sep 12, 2008

    Max,I wouldn't have said 5.10 but I am weak, you might be right.
    By Sam Lightner, Jr.
    From: Lander, WY
    Sep 12, 2008

    I thought it was 11+, as did Jason Lantz, my partner. Perhapsit lost a bit of its veneer and thus is harder to get friction on.
    By Max Kendall
    From: Ouray, CO
    Sep 14, 2008

    Well, whatever it is rated I sure enjoyed the climb! We named it ID because we were listening to the song and hated to add bolts to anything especially on that first pitch but our ropes kept getting stuck. Also Charlie kept telling us how he would simul rap off sprires in Devils Kitchen but we placed rap anchors anyway.
    By Sam Lightner, Jr.
    From: Lander, WY
    Sep 15, 2008

    Some tidbits from Industrial Disease

    "Warning lights are flashing down at quality control..

    Somewhere in the corridors someone was heard to sneeze.
    Goodness me, could this be industrial disease?


    The watchdogs got rabies, the foremans got fleas,
    And everyones concerned about industrial disease.

    Some blame the management, some the employees,
    And everybody knows its the industrial disease


    On itv and bbc they talk about the curse,
    Philosophy is useless, theology is worse.
    History boils over, theres an economic freeze,
    Sociologists invent words that mean industrial disease


    I go down to speakers corner, I'm thunderstruck.
    They got free speech, tourists, police in trucks.
    Two men say theyre jesus, one of them must be wrong.
    Theres a protest singer singing a protest song - he says
    'They wanna have a war to keep us on our knees.
    They wanna have a war to keep their factories.
    They wanna have a war to stop us buying japanese.
    They wanna have a war to stop industrial disease'.

    Meanwhile the first jesus says 'Id cure it soon,
    Abolish Monday mornings and Friday afternoons.'
    The other ones on a hunger strike, hes dying by degrees.
    How come jesus gets industrial disease?
    By B-rian
    Nov 12, 2010
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

    Climbed this on 11/4/10. This route would be a nice climb, except it is slick, sandy Entrada so you can never quite trust your feet from peeling off. The pro is decent though. I used most of a triple set on the first pitch. Big gear was helpful. I'd call it 11+, but maybe it was just extra sandy and slick when I did it. Bolts and chain anchor at the top.
    By Jay Anderson
    Sep 23, 2014

    Did it Friday, the mighty Herb Crimp leading pitch one, equally mighty Nate Sydnor leading pitch two, I got to follow into the dark.
    This superb route kicks serious ass!!
    Do it today!!