P1. Take the very large blackened dihedral in the middle of the wall at the lowest point of rock. Climb up for a long lead and belay to the right on a bench (5.7).
P2. Take easy corners and cracks for a long pitch straight up and belay on a large ledge (5.6).
P3. Take the left corner system that angles left to a ledge with trees (5.7). (I got off route; easy to do with many dihedrals that all go in the same general direction, and traversed right out of the corner to a perfect hand crack that goes up to a ledge with a dead tree....part of the route Climbing with the Camel Man, 5.8).
P4. Go up to the right-angling crack that passes thru some small overlaps/roofs to a belay on a ledge with a large tree (5.7).
P5. More of the same slabby and overlap stuff to the summit (5.6).
Descend by hiking down gullies to the east and around and down.
Tracy at the Pitch 3 tree belay. Many nice trees t...
Three groups heading up the Indirect and Direct ro...
Starting P3 from the two bolt anchor belay.
Heidi cleaning up the first pitch.
Looking down P1 from the tree with six slings and ...
The overhanging hand crack on P4. Tricky pro up in...
Into the offwidth crack on the start of our P2.
BETA PHOTO: You might call this route Indirect Camel, as it co...
|By Michael Walker|
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 16, 2001
McGregor is an enigma to me, a strange combination of senses. It looks impressive from the road and has the big feeling of Lumpy, but the character of your annoying cousin. It seemed that all my good intentions of maintaining a consistent line were thwarted by McGregor's confusing dome of granite overlaps and dihedrals, and its lack of consistent features. I intended to piece together Direct and Indirect, and it was almost possible to plan the first two pitches from the ground; but this is dome climbing all the way: you never see all the climbing above or below. It's like climbing on a beach ball.
And so by the third pitch my logic and intentions broke down until I was scanning the rock above and the nicest crack won my attention. Luckily, this disregard for lines could not get me into too much trouble, the hardest climbing on these upper reaches of the mountain were no harder than 5.8. Not that I even saw any climbing this difficult ...
So I even wonder why there are "Routes" on this rock. Unless you want to climb lubrication and know the name of the pitch you shit your pants on. Or so that when you describe "your" climb, you can tell your friends "you start at the black dihedral as for Indirect," to reduce blank stares.
|By Matt Bauman|
Sep 18, 2001
I'm not sure if you are insulting me ("your" climb) or just do not like climbing McGregors confusing slabbiness....... I agree that 5.8 is about as hard as it gets, but if you look around on and up the right side of the crag you will find some burly one pitch climbs for sure...... I really enjoyed Indirect or whatever I ended up climbing.... routefinding is tricky but the climbing is fun and the protection is good no matter where you choose to climb ('cept the blank slab of course)..... You probably wouldn't like Dags in Beanland on Seam Rock either, much more runout, easier routefinding, much more committing, about the same length, no harder than 5.8 ... sounds shitty don't it??? It's still one of my favorite routes.
|By Michael Walker|
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 18, 2001
Oh no, Matt, no insult intended at all! That was a "your" as in anyone who has climbed McGregor. I did think it was funny that you started on a climb and got off route (or maybe you didn't, who's to know?!?) just like I did.
I enjoyed McGregor - you're right: good pro and clean rock, but it left me wanting more. I couldn't get over how many "cool" features just stopped right when it was getting fun - like the hand crack on the raised rib I ended up laybacking that was killer on the third pitch - and it was anti-climatic the last two 200' pitches of easy rock. I also had been to the rock twice with no summit, so when I finally did do the whole thing...well, you could read in my comments - yes, I was a little let down.
About Dags, how did you know that was on my hit parade?!?
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 15, 2006
The route we did combined Indirect and tops out on Climbing With the Camel Man. See Gillett's Estes Park Guidebook, p. 267. Due to the nature of the walkoff, consider taking all of your gear with you and not returning to the base of the climb.
P1 starts in a large left-facing dihedral. Climb up and move onto the top of the dihedral near a big tree by climbing up some cracks and flakes. At the belay tree is a collection of five slings of many colors and two rap rings. To rap here would require two ropes.
P2 - I chose to go into the offwidth crack directly above as it looked cool and it is. Reaching down into the crack, you can get your fingers under the layer of rock you are on. Small cams will go under this skin of rock split by the offwidth. This gradually leans left and shows itself to be a large flake. At the top of the flake, sling a long, thin horn and move delicately to the left over the edge into a thin dihedral. Find a handhold, and place a gray Alien. Move up the thin crack to a large ledge with a tree and two Metolius rap bolts to the left of the tree.
P3 - Go right up a thin and easy crack and then over featured rock requiring little pro. Belay at another substantial live tree next to a dead tree.
P4 - Move up 30 ft. and engage an overhung finger crack with large crystals. Good pro before mounting the crack, but kind of funky once on. Much better pro up higher and left. Then, go up over a bulge that takes pro on both sides. Move your feet left to avoid looking like a beached whale. Continue over easy terrain about 20 more feet, and make a gear belay in the long horizontal crack. You should be able to get a #1, #2 and #3 Camalot in the crack towards the left of it.
P5 - Move up and left of the horizontal crack where you belayed and move over easy ground that passes several ridges of rock with more horizontal cracks for pro. Sneak up and over a wall that has horizontal cracks to protect climbing on good handholds and feet. Keep going to the huge tree at the bivy ledge. This ledge has gravel and could accomodate a whole wall team. Enjoy the view.
P6 - Go right until you see the crack and the easy ramp. Plug in a cam and shoot up the ramp. The climbing after this is very sedate. Proceed to the next grove of trees and belay up your second. Unrope and walk off down and to the right. If you want to revisit the base of the climb, start traversing back before you go too low in the descent gully. Look for a broken buttress as you look over at the dome, and traverse just below it.