||Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||sean barb and phil york|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||don't climb when the peregrines are nesting!|
|Page Views: ||582|
|Submitted By: ||sean barb on Apr 30, 2009|
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20 feet right of nevermore is a corner that has a very steep seam-like feature splitting off right of the corner. originally we conceived climbing onto the headwall directly, but avoiding stemming would be pointless and doesn't detract from the interesting nature of this climb. might still be a fixed nut in the lower crack near the crux. a great first pitch to access the indian head.
right of nevermore (the 5.8 one), and right of a dihedral is an overhanging line with a crack/seam that boulders up a steep underbelly to a really aesthetic, but short headwall.
a mix of small to mid sized cams and nuts protects this line well.