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 ADVANCED
Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arrow Head S 
Captain Cheese Dog S 
Flatus S 
Grizzly Crack T 
Indian Springs S 
Out of the Blue TR 
RP 4 Me T,S 
Sundaze S 
Super Thin T 
Zephyr S 

Indian Springs 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,075
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Jul 23, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Paul at the first runout section which continues t...

Description 

This climb starts just right of the obvious thin crack towards the left side of Lower Tier and continues straight up and a bit right to a large stance below the upper wall section. Getting to this stance is not too difficult technically but it is a bit of a runout. A small cam could help protect this part. Move right a bit to another bolt and head straight up to the top. I believe this is the crux and is definitely runout. Easier climbing to the top is found if you move right and then up although this probably in not correct as the double anchors are straight up.

Protection 

This route is bolt protected although at two places the runouts are pretty far. A small to medium cam could protect getting to the stance prior to the upper wall. Going straight up over the last bolt to the top is a bit runout too! Double bolts are found as anchors.


Photos of Indian Springs Slideshow Add Photo
Paul starting out on Indian Springs.
Paul starting out on Indian Springs.
Photo shows left side of Lower Tier.  The toprope is set up on Captain Cheeze Dog.  The thin crack is Super Thin.  Just right of the crack is Indian Springs which continues all the way up to top of photo.
BETA PHOTO: Photo shows left side of Lower Tier. The toprope ...
Paul trying to get some gear to protect the runout section to the top.  Crack was shallow and flared.  Something might work but he ended up running it out to the top from the bolt a couple feet below his feet.
Paul trying to get some gear to protect the runout...

Comments on Indian Springs Add Comment
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By Alex Curtis
From: Rexburg, ID
Jul 30, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Top Roped it. Made a good warm up route for some other stuff on this rock.
By Ryan Kosh
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jul 17, 2009

Lead. #1 and #2 Metolius used to fill in the run outs (for a sport climb).
By Alden
Aug 16, 2010

I just went climbing this past weekend (August 2010). The anchor bolts for this route are loose. Recommend not climbing until it's rebolted.
By anthony509
From: grass valley, ca
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

yes, best warm-up route
one anchor bolt was modern screw type with shiny hanger; other was older but solid