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Indian Springs

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Indian Springs 


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Elevation: 5,500'
Location: 39.32752, -120.56732 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Jul 24, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Shot of Indian Springs shown from the parking lot....

Description 

Indian Springs is a 3-tiered south facing granite slab with about 20 routes ranging from 5.6 to hard 5.11. Most of the routes are bolted with additional trad gear possibilities here and there to help protect longer run-out sections. A few climbs are strictly trad. The rock is excellent quality making for exceptional face climbing routes. Indian Springs Campground is just down the road and the close-by South Yuba River offers a wonderful dip after a hot day of climbing. To descend off the upper tier, walk left down the western rock slabs circling back around to the cliffs. The trail is pretty much non existent through the manzanita so most people rappel down the main slabs. Double bolts with chains and rappel rings are easily found on top of most routes. Access is free and the approach is a fairly easy 10-15 minutes walk straight in from parking lot following a small trail to slabs which can be hiked up to the right to the top and then left to base of lower tier. The best path is not obvious but basically you head for the left side of the lower tier. Either way, you can't get lost as the cliffs are always in plain sight. The lower tier offers numerous introduction routes in the 5.9 to 5.10 range which are excellent leads. All routes can be top-roped also by scrambling up the left side. Some of the routes do have some run-out sections which may or may not have trad placement possibilities. There is also a large section of rock to the right of the lower tier that has some moderate climbs. I haven't seen much information on this section but looks fun to explore. Recommended routes are Indian Springs (5.9), Sundaze (5.9+), Zephyr (5.10c/d), Fire Stone (5.9), Rocco's Corner (5.9+), and Joey's.

Indian Springs does have a two page spread in Mike Carville's Falcon Guide called Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe.The guide has a sketch of the 3-tiers with route names, ratings, and locations identified.


Getting There 

Indian Springs is conveniently located 1 mile east of Cisco Grove on the north side of Interstate 80 about 45 miles east of Auburn and 12 miles west of Donner Pass Summit. Exit at the Eagle Lakes Rd exit and turn north and west following the Eagle Lakes frontage road for about 1/2 mile. An obvious pullout parking area is found on the right side with a clear view of the cliffs up and on the right about 500 yards away.


19 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',8],['5.10',7],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Indian Springs:
Flatus   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
Fire Stone   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Lower Cliffs, Upper Tier
Grizzly Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
RP 4 Me   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
Captain Cheese Dog   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
Indian Springs   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
Super Thin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
Sundaze   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
When Joey Comes Marching Home   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   Lower Cliffs, Upper Tier
Zephyr   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
Browse More Classics in Indian Springs

Featured Route For Indian Springs
Right facing corner is in the shadow  left of center. Straight up from the right facing corner is the vertical crack with the 5.7+ crux.

Grizzly Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
Climb the face next to the right facing wall. The move through the wide crack about 45' up is 5.5. Or you can start on the knobby face off to the right, climb up next to a left facing wall and do a lie back move through the right hand crack. This move is 5.6. The climb goes low angle for a bit after these moves. Climb the low angle up to the steeper section of the wall and climb up the obvious vertical crack. The 5.8 crux is in this section of the climb and you can get good pro in the crack to p...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Indian Springs Add Comment
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By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 19, 2011

Depending on what you wish to lead, bringing a light rack of singles to #1 plus a set of small cams like C3s will cover any pro you wish to supplement between bolts on most routes here.