Indian Springs is a 3-tiered south facing granite slab with about 20 routes ranging from 5.6 to hard 5.11. Most of the routes are bolted with additional trad gear possibilities here and there to help protect longer run-out sections. A few climbs are strictly trad. The rock is excellent quality making for exceptional face climbing routes. Indian Springs Campground is just down the road and the close-by South Yuba River offers a wonderful dip after a hot day of climbing. To descend off the upper tier, walk left down the western rock slabs circling back around to the cliffs. The trail is pretty much non existent through the manzanita so most people rappel down the main slabs. Double bolts with chains and rappel rings are easily found on top of most routes. Access is free and the approach is a fairly easy 10-15 minutes walk straight in from parking lot following a small trail to slabs which can be hiked up to the right to the top and then left to base of lower tier. The best path is not obvious but basically you head for the left side of the lower tier. Either way, you can't get lost as the cliffs are always in plain sight. The lower tier offers numerous introduction routes in the 5.9 to 5.10 range which are excellent leads. All routes can be top-roped also by scrambling up the left side. Some of the routes do have some run-out sections which may or may not have trad placement possibilities. There is also a large section of rock to the right of the lower tier that has some moderate climbs. I haven't seen much information on this section but looks fun to explore. Recommended routes are Indian Springs (5.9), Sundaze (5.9+), Zephyr (5.10c/d), Fire Stone (5.9), Rocco's Corner (5.9+), and Joey's.
Indian Springs is conveniently located 1 mile east of Cisco Grove on the north side of Interstate 80 about 45 miles east of Auburn and 12 miles west of Donner Pass Summit. Exit at the Eagle Lakes Rd exit and turn north and west following the Eagle Lakes frontage road for about 1/2 mile. An obvious pullout parking area is found on the right side with a clear view of the cliffs up and on the right about 500 yards away.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Indian Springs:
Featured Route For Indian Springs
Joey's 5.9+ CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Upper Tier
Joey's first half is quite easy but a bit run out to the second bolt. The hard moves start just above the third bolt. The first crux is thin hands and feet until you get hands over the small overhang. The second crux is getting your feet over the overhang. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA