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Upper Foothill (The Hideout)
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Indian Paintbrush 

Indian Paintbrush 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alex Bury (TD 2013)
New Route: Yes
Season: summer shade all day
Page Views: 753
Submitted By: Alex Bury on Jul 27, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: The view from Foothill Trail.
Park near the top of Signal Street.

Description 

An eighty foot trad climb in a great setting.
The original line includes a super thin 5.12 boulder problem start on beautiful, water hardened sandstone. Two 5.8 starting variations offer alternatives.
Sustained 5.8 after the start, the route then passes between two bushes. The uppermost part is a section of thin and exposed 5.8 with solid pro below the feet.
The climb tops out upon an airy perch with excellent views of the canyons and the East End of Ojai.

The three starting variations:
Original Start (5.12) Begin directly beneath the left facing flakes on micro edges. A stout V6 boulder problem guards the first chance for pro.
Wandering Start (5.8) Starts right of the Original Start. Grab the shelf and mantle. Then traverse to the flakes on Original Start.
Right Side Direct (5.8) R Begin as for the Wandering Start but climb directly upward through the lower face. This variation is unprotected. The bush midway up the route is the first pro.


Location 

To reach the base:
Upon reaching the saddle, follow the trail into the trees. The trail will rise and head left, following the cliff band. Before you reach the 3rd class gully, a faint trail heads downhill. Follow this climbers trail to the base.
To reach the top of the climb:
Follow the directions above, but scramble up the 3rd class gully.


Protection 

The higher flake, above the original start, offers the first pro. A decent medium or large sized cam can be placed, but walking is a danger so use a sling.
A bush midway can be slung.
The upper crux can be protected quite well. There are several options, including a very good #3 Camalot in a slanting crack.

Top Roping: a top rope can easily be set up by scrambling up the right hand side of the formation on the obvious trail.
A boulder at the top is perfectly situated for anchor duty. Come prepared with webbing or static line to extend your anchor to the lip.



Photos of Indian Paintbrush Slideshow Add Photo
The boulder problem start.
The boulder problem start.
Nolan scoring the second ascent.
Nolan scoring the second ascent.
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