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Indian Creek

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1st Meat Wall 
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Cliffs of Insanity 
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Sinbad Wall 
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Tenderloins Wall 
Vitamin D Wall 
Wall, The 
Way Rambo 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

7-Up
A worthy, but not exceptional trail with great views. Near Moab, UT
Twisted Tree
Twisty! A slightly technical trail with outstanding views. Near Moab, UT
Whiptail
An outstanding section of the Dead Horse Point network. Near Moab, UT
Prickly
Short ups and downs on good quality trail. Near Moab, UT
Dead Horse Point Tour
Stunning scenery and great singletrack. One of the very best beginner/intermediate trails in Moab. Near Moab, UT
Great Pyramid
Another great trail with a small step up in difficulty compared to others in the area. Near Moab, UT
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Indian Creek  


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Location: 38.0258, -109.54 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,255,994
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben F on May 12, 2002
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Sunset from the Bridger Jack camping area

Description 

There are lots of cracks here on the Wingate sandstone. Lots of people now, too. Tread lightly.

Getting There 

To get to the Creek from Moab, go south on US 191 toward Monticello and look for SH 211, which includes a Canyonlands sign, and go right (west). Watch for the Utah State Patrol on 191 and Mule Deer on 211. After the road winds and goes downhill, you will pass Newspaper Rock on your right. In a few miles you have pretty much entered Indian Creek Canyon.

Climbing Season



Weather station 14.1 miles from here

936 Total Routes

['4 Stars',157],['3 Stars',460],['2 Stars',258],['1 Star',52],['Bomb',3]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',4],['5.8',15],['5.9',49],['5.10',357],['5.11',333],['5.12',148],['5.13',26],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Indian Creek:
Chocolate Corner   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Donnelly Canyon
Generic Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Donnelly Canyon
Blue Sun   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Way Rambo
Jolly Rancher   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   Pistol Whipped
Supercrack of the Desert   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   Supercrack Buttress
3AM Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Supercrack Buttress
Incredible Hand Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Supercrack Buttress
Big Guy   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Scarface
Lightning Bolt Cracks   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Grade III   North Six Shooter Peak
Pente   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   Reservoir Wall
Sinestra   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   Original Meat Wall
Excuse Station   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   Reservoir Wall
Scarface   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   Scarface
Annunaki   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Optimator
King Cat   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad   Cat Wall
Spaghetti Western   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad   Pistol Whipped
Coyne Crack   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad   Supercrack Buttress
Way Rambo   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Way Rambo
Slice and Dice   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Way Rambo
Ruby's Cafe   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, 70'   Battle of the Bulge Buttres...
Browse More Classics in Indian Creek

Featured Route For Indian Creek
Steven sending

Broken Brain 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Cliffs of Insanity
This is a mega classic. The first half of the climb starts as a not-easy finger crack before getting into a series of hand cracks through pods. The first two pods are easy to jam around; the final, which has a bolt near it, requires one move of leavittation. This puts you at the base of an awesome headwall, and one of the steepest splitters at the Creek. Go from good hands, to thin hands, to ringlocks, to hard finger stacks as the pump builds! The splitter is a bit offset, so you ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Indian Creek Slideshow Add Photo
Late day at the Creek. Looking down Beef Basin. April 2011.
Late day at the Creek. Looking down Beef Basin. Ap...
Enforced rest day activity.
Enforced rest day activity.
View from Davis Canyon Road
View from Davis Canyon Road
Sixshooter Peaks
Sixshooter Peaks
Unknown crack at the Creek.
Unknown crack at the Creek.
flowers below Supercrack
flowers below Supercrack
I was pined down on the 2nd meat wall for 5 hours from this storm.road washed out waterfalls out of every crack hail wind ! i felt like a flag in the wind warping down wen the storm hit. got soaked to the bone.
I was pined down on the 2nd meat wall for 5 hours ...
North and South Six Shooters
North and South Six Shooters
North 6 Shooter from the Beach
North 6 Shooter from the Beach
Sunset at Indian Creek
Sunset at Indian Creek
gobies, fingers and The Six Star Crack at Indian Creek
gobies, fingers and The Six Star Crack at Indian C...
Sunset at Indian Creek
Sunset at Indian Creek
pretty shot of the creek
pretty shot of the creek
Fireside shenanigans in the Creek
Fireside shenanigans in the Creek
The Fin and Cat Wall catch late light under clearing storm clouds
The Fin and Cat Wall catch late light under cleari...
"My rack is bigger than your rack!"
"My rack is bigger than your rack!"
My attempt at an artistic photo.
My attempt at an artistic photo.
5-legged tarantulas, covered in tape. They're all over the Creek!
5-legged tarantulas, covered in tape. They're all ...
A panorama of the Bridger Jacks and the Six Shooters
A panorama of the Bridger Jacks and the Six Shoote...
Things have changed and not for the better
Things have changed and not for the better
First ascent of "Fringe of Life" (5.12) 1983. Allen Hill. We also called the canyon that little knowing it would stick after all these years.photo by Chuck Grossman
First ascent of "Fringe of Life" (5.12) 1983. Alle...
A view from the Scarface Wall
BETA PHOTO: A view from the Scarface Wall
Sunset at The Wall
Sunset at The Wall
I'll take this over coffee any morning.
I'll take this over coffee any morning.

Show All 139 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Indian Creek Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 12, 2014
By Bernard Vachon
Nov 11, 2002
Could anybody tell me if it is a good idea to climb in IC in June ?... Or is it too hot ??
By Dan Russell
Mar 17, 2003
There's an easy way to get away from the posers and brats at Indian Creek: MY GOODNESS, PEOPLE, GET THE HELL AWAY FROM SUPERCRACK BUTTRESS!! There's a million Supercrack's at the Creek. I've never understood why everyone flocks to that one cliff, when the Creek is unfathomably huge! Personally I get as far away from that buttress as I can.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 25, 2003
I have an actual question:

There's a route on Battle of the Bulge, between Crack Attack and the Big Baby (closer to Crack Attack) that's not in my guidebook. It's about 50-60' long it's a black left facing corner/open book (wider than 90 degrees) It starts thin fingers, then gets tighter and tighter until you have to stem and use some pods. I'm pretty certain it's in the 5.12-12+ range. Does anyone know what this is? Thanks
By Friso Schlottau
May 8, 2003
I asked about camping areas at Indian Creek on the climbingboulder.com mailing list, and thought I'd add the reply posts, since the intro to Indian Creek description has poor descriptions of the various places. First reply was from Steve "Crusher" Bartlett:

  • ***************1. A month ago the road was rough, but easy enough in my 4x4 truck. There wereseveral passenger car / low clearance vehicles parked out there, so with some care and patience this works for most vehicles. Drove it in a 2WD vehicle last fall (Prius, very low clearance), and it seemd ok. You can expect to bottom out a little perhaps, but not badly enough to do any damage.[add-on by Friso: This is regarding the Bridger Jack's area. It is reached by turning left on the second dirt road that is past Dugout Ranch, I believe. If you are on the correct road, you should soon encounter a low level water crossing, followed by an odd intersection where a hard right will take you to Bridger Jack's camp area.]

2. The Super Bowl camping area is located on the left, just before thesignposted turn-off for Davis Canyon (access for the Six-shooters). This is about 11 miles from Newspaper Rock, on the left. I've not seen this area for a couple years. It had a portable toilet, and was easy to access back then. Should still be the same.

3. Other camping areas include:Newspaper Rock, which is often busy, but is nice and shady, and has pittoilets. The Hamburger Rock area is a mile or so past the Davis Canyon turn-off (maybe15 miles from Newspaper Rock) and is on the right. Look for a large wooded BLM sign, with directions. This is an easy 2WD mile or so off of the main road, and is usually frequented by hikers, and is usually ignored by climbers (kind of a long commute from the climbing). There are pit toilets here.There is also undeveloped camping within Cottonwood Canyon beyond the Dugout Ranch area to the southwest (near Pistol Whipped Wall). Also along Davis Canyon Road, but this road becomes very rough, very quickly.

4. There are two areas which are currently designated as No Camping: a. The inner canyon area between Newspaper Rock and the Dugout Ranch/Reservoir.This includes the side-canyons. b. The Lavender Canyon area. This is the pristine area beyond the BridgerJacks, extending along the west side of the Bridger Jack Mesa.**************** An add-on by H.R. Barnard

  • ***************I was at the super bowl about 3 weeks ago. It is very accessible to lowclearance vehicles. Another tip on finding it to add to Crusher's. Rightbefore the turn there is a short but very noticeable, slightly curving distinct downhill section of the road. The gate to the superbowl isimmediately after that. There was also a small nature conservancy/BLM IndianCreek brochure box located at the gate to help identify it. Don't be detered byall the RV-type vehicles you see initially. Stay to the left of where theypark and you'll find the climber camping.****************
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 12, 2003
I was just wondering about summer weather, is it too hot to climb, or is it possible to find relief in the shade on some of the walls? Also, a little bit more specific: what are the best months, ok months, and worse months to climb at indian creek. I appreciate the Help.

Maui Postma
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 14, 2003
The best months at the Creek are fall and spring March through mid-May and mid-September through November. The unfortunate thing about the Creek for summer climbing is that most of the walls face South. However, there are a few excellent walls which get plenty of shade: Reservoir Wall and 4x4 Wall come to mind as the best.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 14, 2003
just wondering if anybody has info on a couple routes we did this weekend. the two routes we did were side by side, and they were between dusty trails to nowhere and coyote essence.

the left hand route went up the right side of a flake on great hands and then burrows into a sweet squeeze chimney. the squeeze is capped by a hand crack that quickly tapers to a lieback to get to the anchors. (5.9 until layback topout, maybe 10b, approx 80 feet).

the right hand route (about 15 feet to the right) was pretty low angle. it started with a finger lieback to get onto a small pedestal. then it was low angled ringlocks and tight hands for a ways. finally, there is kind of an angled slot/recess with tight hands (this part is steeper). (maybe 10b or so, approx 60 feet?)

thanks for the info. both routes were excellent.
By Grant b
Sep 22, 2005
two questions, about Indian Creek, one which wall is Diedier's new climb on, from switzerland with love? i am going to the creek this weekend and just want to check out the route, next...what wall is the ringel on? thanks for the help!
By Madaleine
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jan 28, 2006
Question! Might anyone recall the names of the two newish routes just left of the Optimator (yes, on the Optimator Wall)? The farthest left is an easier 5.12 in a right-facing corner, I believe containing thw word 'red' in its short name, and the other begins with a bouldery start. Anyway, they are fun routes, if you haven't made it over there, and for whatever reason it's nagging me that I can't recall the names.
By wetyeti
Apr 6, 2006
whats the deal with climbing on the reservoir wall? shutdown or what??
By Rob T
Sep 7, 2006
Just talked to Heidi about Resevoir in May '06. She would prefer that people stay on the left side of the wall, basically out of view of the ranch.
By chris Kalous
Nov 8, 2006
A note for 1st ascensionists from an ARI volunteer who has replaced stacks of anchors in the creek.

Some guidelines to consider for new anchors:

1. Use deep half inch bolts when possible (a power drill drills a better hole, and even though it is heavy on the hike, it can drop in a 4 1/2 X 1/2 inch hole in about 15 seconds).

2.Three eighths is your second choice.

3. Leave the baby angles at home. I have cleaned these antiquated things with embarrassingly little effort. They are difficult to place, anyway, even by experienced drillers (hence the ones sticking out an inch from the wall). Besides, they are more expensive than expansion bolts.

4. Use steel anchors. Webbing is visually gross and wears out quickly becoming unsafe. There are many cheap options at your local hardware store.

5. Camo the anchors. Every hardware store carries a brown primer that is exactly the color of windgate.

5. Make the link to the rope replaceable without having to replace the entire setup (ie: screwlinks or old biners).

A major complaint against climbers in indian creek and across the country is the visual impact of bolts and anchors, so this is an access issue and a safety issue.

Finally, those of you who carry a bolt kit for beefing up anchors, consider carrying enough gear to replace the entire thing with steel hardware and good bolts. This will avoid creating those confusing rats nest anchors that we always see out there. If one out of every one hundred parties replaced one anchor, the place would be cleaned up in no time.

Thanks
Chris Kalous
Climbing Magazine ARI volunteer.

PS: If you put up routes with single bolt anchors, you're cheap and lazy.
By Ranchhand
From: Bend, OR
Apr 25, 2008
Hi, I got busted on the 211, the road going into Indian Creek Corridor. I was speeding and got searched. Dont speed and just say no to search. Be careful on these Utah backroads, spred the word.
By Larry Bruce
Oct 27, 2008
Last week I went up and climbed the wonderful Whales Back on Technicolor Wall and noticed a new route to the right of it with 3 shiny new bolts on a prow to the right of a flair. What really bothered me about it was the name of the route SILVER LINING scribed on the wall. I like plaques, they can be attractive and artistic but scribing on the wall itself is not only defacing the rock but is a ticket to having IC closed for climbing. All it takes is one pissed off Native American working with the BLM to shut it down, with good reason. Choss Boy
By chris Kalous
Dec 7, 2008
From the Redds of Indian Creek 12/07/08...

...As you know, one of our dogs is missing from the Dugout Ranch (aka Indian Creek area). Please forward this email to anyone who may be able to help.

"Jack" is a female Kelpie/Boxer cross, with distinctive black and white markings and a couple brown spots on her cheek. (pictures attached) She is a very sweet, affectionate and friendly dog who went missing shortly before Thanksgiving. Jack's brother was picked up by a female rock climber on 11/23 and was TAKEN to Moab. This climber kept our dog for a week before reporting it to the Humane Society, where I finally tracked him down on 12/3.

Jack is unfortunately still missing. She was wearing a brown leather collar with a brass nameplate riveted to it that clearly stated she lives at Dugout Ranch, along with all our contact information.

If anyone has any information at all, or someone in town has s dog matching her description, please contact us at this email or leave a message at 435-459-0018 . Feel free to email if you have any questions or need more information.

Also, I thought you should know this is not the first time this has happened. Perhaps if we can get the word out, this type of thing will happen less frequently. I am planning to post flyers at the kiosks down here as well.

Please advise people: If you see a "stray" dog at Indian Creek, bring it to the ranch to ask before you make any assumptions. The bottom line: you are climbing and camping on private and leased property, where these dogs live and work daily. Please have some common sense. Our dogs are very friendly and will not forgo attention! Because they let you pet them (or feed them!) does not mean they are strays.


Thank you,
Melinda & Adam Redd
melindaredd@yahoo.com
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Dec 20, 2008
Larry, the perpetrator to said inscribing is a well known desert hermit (whose name rhymes with ralph). I doubt he spends much time on MP, so you might have to track him down in the field. While his practice of "inscribing" route names might not be the best idea, keep in mind that he has done a lot of work for Technicolor Wall, including building a trail.
By Bob Dobalina
Sep 8, 2009
Just got back from a long labor day weekend in the Creek. NOBODY was there! All the popular camping and climbing was wide open. The weather was perfect as long as you stayed out of direct sun. I don't think that I saw more than one or two cars parked at Supercrack Buttress all weekend long!
Imagine showing up at Supercrack Buttress mid day on a saturday and having your pick of any climb!?! Yeah, that's how it was.
By Indian Creek 2112
Oct 15, 2009
Indian Creek is fast becoming known as the worlds best crack climbing. Most people camp a few days and then stay at a hotel. Motnticello, utah is the closest town and Inn at the Canyons is the actuall closest hotel to Indian Creek. I am the owner of the hotel and an avid climber my self, so i would like to offer a 25% discount to all climbers just by mentioning this add and that you are a climber. We are in Monticello, utah 533 N main, Inn at the canyons. Come in, save some money and talk to me ( the Owner Jared) about some sweet climbs that only locals know about. monticellocanyonlandsinn.com
By Indian Creek 2112
Mar 26, 2010
If you are going to Indian Creek, which is proballly the best crack climbing inj the world and need a hotel after camping out, I reccomend Inn at the Canyons, in Monticello. It is 40 minutes closer to indian creek than moab, it's a very nice hotel and the owner is a climber and gives us $20.00 USD off if you just mention you are climbing Indian Creeek, Pretty cool. Indoor Pool, Hot tub, Break fast Inn at the Canyons 435 587-2458
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 28, 2010
After reading some stuff hear I thought our visit might be similar to surfing at one of So Cals hot breaks where fistfights are not uncommon. But as usual the climbers we met were great mostly friendly and really courteous. If they had a rope hanging and you wanted to lead the route. Even on the weekend when Cat Wall had a ton of cars and a lot of climbers it was busy but not unpleasant. Wait I mean it really sucked everyone had an attitude and the whole trip sucked.:)
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Mar 29, 2010
And don't forget the standard "the place is ruined, man."
By 303scott
Apr 15, 2010
It looks like Cat, Reservoir and Slug walls are closed again for raptors through August 31. Are there any other seasonal closures?
By Xander! Wyckoff
From: Durango, CO
Apr 2, 2012
Dear Boulder,
I don't really mind that you're colonizing Indian Creek. I don't mind that you apply an entire roll of tape to your hands (some of you; I know the danger of generalization, but I am compelled to indulge). I don't mind that you're strong and fit and attractively clothed. Please just don't tell me how to climb, how you climb, or how good you are at climbing. There is room for everyone at the creek, even at the most crowded walls, but our egos make things feel quite a bit more crowded

Humbly yours,
Xander
By slim
Administrator
Apr 3, 2012
any particular incident, or just in general?
By jankstank
Sep 13, 2012
purist, non-purist, semi-purist, antipurist.. It doesn't matter just "do you" and let other people "do themselves". All I know is I love indian creek and want to go back! but I have to go to work instead :(
By slim
Administrator
Dec 13, 2013
hey ya bunch of sand eating cam horders, i'm thinking about trying to organize the unnamed/unknown/newly-renamed routes a bit so that it is easier to find them when you are at the cliff. for example the 'unknown' 5.11 on the far left side of battle of the bulge buttress would be renamed 'unknown 5.11 RF corner with 2 bolts'. etc.

Curious to see if anybody has any heartburn about it, if not i will try to get started on some of the smaller walls first. this will probably take some trial and error, so if i muff one up feel free to criticize/slander accordingly.

also, i am going to try to go through and merge duplicate entries. this might take a while.

thanks.
By Indian Creek 2112
Dec 31, 2013
Hello All! Just wanted to update everyone; The Inn at the Canyons coupon has expired. The owner still loves climbers and would love to give everyone a great rate. Discount will vary depending on season and availability.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jan 12, 2014
Here goes, the fall rain is settling in on the NW for a few months so I will tackle this subject that has been nagging at me for 10 years or so.
I am only looking at BD Camalots to keep it simple.
I used to think it was the transition from old to new Camalots, but I find that even with the newer books there are discrepancies.

Supertopo 2013 Optimal C4 range sizes:
.3 - 3/4"
.4- 1"
.5 - 1 1/4"
.75- 1 1/2- 1 3/4"
#1 - 1 3/4 -2"
#2 - 2- 2 1/2"
#3- 3- 3 1/2"
#4 - 3 1/2- 4 1/2"
#5 - 4 1/2- 5 1/2"
#6 - 5 1/2 -7"

Actual Optimal C4 range sizes:

.3 - 5/8"
.4 - 3/4"
.5 - 1"
.75 - 1 1/4"
#1 -1 9/16'
#2 - 1 15/16"
#3 - 2 11/16"
#4 - 3 7/16"
#5 - 4 5/8'
#6 - 6"

Some might object that I am including 1/16", but you will see that even without the 1/16" the numbers are way off. I measured the cams working range too, but am just including the sweet spot, best position placement. I usually try to figure out for myself what cams are needed for any given pitch, but since Supertopo suggests rack sizes for routes this might confuse a few newer leaders.
I add this here because the Bloom books have the sizes sometimes off too.