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Indian Creek (mostly) number 2 Size Cracks?
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By Christian
From Casa do Cacete
Apr 5, 2012

Is there a wall at Indian Creek that has routes like this one:

www.mountainproject.com/v/blue-sun/105718435

but more than one at that wall? Shorter routes are fine as well.

#3/3.5 is not a good size for me and it would be my first trip, so I'm trying to stick to what I'm more solid at for now.

Or if that's a pipe dream also let me know.

Thanks much.


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By Robert Buswold
From Longmont, CO
Apr 5, 2012
Clear Creek Canyon, Capitalist Crag

Don't know about a complete wall of #2 size cracks, but Generic Hand Crack in Donnelly Canyon is about that size. So is Incredible Hand Crack over on Supercrack Buttress.


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Apr 5, 2012

Go climb where your friends are climbing. Make the best of whatever crag you're at. There are hand cracks everywhere and you are doing yourself a disservice by only climbing the 2's, even on your first trip. Do the climbs that have varied sizes. It's good for you. Indian creek is the best training if you do it right.


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By Phill T
Apr 5, 2012

your right ankle will be cursing your soul for all of eternity if you do bunny slope as your first hand sized crack. I'd recommend shorter things too for a first trip out. Supercrack buttress really is a great place to start if you can avoid the inevitable crowds. you have Incredible Hand Crack, and a bit to its left, just to the right of 3AM crack is a stellar unnamed 5.10 handcrack through some slots and pods. The crux is wriggling your way out of the big one, but it is SLAMMER hands in the back of it. theres Supercrack too, but its certainly wider at the top. Twin crack is a great baby start crack with a bit of everything and just about zero stress. Across the way you have Generic, but its a sandbag and a half at '9+'. the pods at the bottom are pretty damn tricky and if you dont fly past them, you will be gassed for sure for the rest of the route.

have fun, wear shoes you dont mind getting trashed that have your toes totally flat, and get ready to be humbled!


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By Adam Paashaus
From North Carolina
Apr 5, 2012
After you get done climbing be sure to head up to the summit for sunset. Its only a 10 minute walk from the main wall. Don't forget your headlamp.

Check out chocolate corner and binou's crack for starters. They are 9s and one or both has some thin hand sections to get you comfortable with the thought of doing something other than perfect hands. Then I would branch out to the 10s. Wavy gravy is fun and for the most part good hands and I think a route called the "thing" (near the drainpipe was a fun 10 that has a couple cracks in a corner that I enjoyed. Branch out and you may surprise yourself and end up having more fun. And yes generic is perfect hands and worth doing. Bring MANY #2s and a 70 to get you down. And Incredible really is incredible. Have fun. Those two routes are popular so expect to wait in line.


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By JLP
From The Internet
Apr 5, 2012

Christian wrote:
#3/3.5 is not a good size for me...

Add more tape until it is, like everyone else.


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By slim
Administrator
Apr 5, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

johnL's got a pretty valid point. the majority of the cracks that i can think of with significant sections of slammer hands tend to have some sections of more difficult climbing.

neat and hayutake at optimator - tricky entry moves with slightly tricky gear. jagged wedge at the gash - a small section of OW. rock lobster at broken tooth - significantly harder finish. unnamed handcrack at broken tooth - a couple wider sections and awkward changing corners. unnamed handcrack at the res - funkier start. unnamed crack on R side of petrified hornet - spooky finger start w/ detached block and harder finish. deseret moon at cat wall - jumbled low quality start or difficult start that has a reputation for spitting out gear (your choice).

nothing in life comes for free son. at some point you will learn to appreciate the 'different' sizes.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Apr 5, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!

The most perfect gold splitter, with no hard sections, no wide sections, in all of Indian Creek, is Crack Attack:

mountainproject.com/v/crack-attack/106405603










Oh, you meant Indian Creek in UTAH?


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Apr 5, 2012
The route in it's entirety.

the most fun cracks i've ever done at the creek are the climbs i wasn't planning on doing! following a friend up their project or coming around a corner to discover some obscure climb that inspires me. i'm no 5.12 climber like JohnL or some of these other guys so trust me when i say you can have fun on every size of crack in the creek at a moderate grade. have fun!


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By doligo
Apr 6, 2012
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style

3AM and Neat are heavy on #3 camalots IIRC. that being said, don't hesitate jumping on them or The Supercrack, because the feet are so good! I'm more comfortable with 1s but still enjoy them. it's closed till Aug, but if you could deal with some chimneying for a bit, The Slot Machine opens up to the longest #2 handcrack. As was stated, the pods on Generic are more like #4 - yuck


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 6, 2012
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo

Let me know if you need any cams. Will not need them for a day or two.


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By Bryan Gall
From New Castle, CO
Apr 6, 2012

Two timer; far left Second Meat Wall.


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By Ezekiel Thornton
From Akron, Ohio
Apr 19, 2012
Top of Castleton

Phill T wrote:
your right ankle will be cursing your soul for all of eternity if you do bunny slope as your first hand sized crack.


HAHA so true, was my first lead in the creek/ever and my ankle felt terrible. lllong route but easy and fun!


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By Keith Beckley
Apr 19, 2012

are you kidding me...whats happened to poor Indian Creek


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Apr 19, 2012
El Chorro

+1 to johnL and S Denny.

You don't go to IC to climb what you're good at, you go to climb what you suck at. It's the best training you'll ever get. Just go wherever your group is going and get on everything that you possibly can. If there is a TR around and you don't get on it, you've missed the whole point of going to IC.

You're going to be standing below 2 and 300 foot walls that have bolts at the top of every crack, usually less than half way up the wall. It's the most sport influenced "traditional area" on earth. The area has been developed as a training ground for towers and big walls.

Sure, once you get addicted you can search for those route that have your locker sizes, but in the beginning it's better to just get crushed by anything and everything. You'll have a lot more fun if you throw all expectations out the window, and take everything as a learning experience. The more you fall, the more you will learn.


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