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Select Route:
Bat Attack 
Between the Sheets 
Boiler 
Burnin' Hell 
C N Red 
Crap Attack 
Doin' the Smurf 
Drillin' Hoes 
El Diablo 
Fighting Fish 
Flavor Blasted Spermacide 
Go Left 
Horrible chimney route 
In Through the Outhole 
No Response 
Ordinary Freak 
Spearhead 
Talent Show 
Ward off 

Indian Bluffs 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 42.2205, -91.0715 Map
Page Views: 3,703. Good page? (3 likes)   
Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: moss1956 on Oct 8, 2008

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Closed north of Chimney Rock. MORE INFO >>>


Dustin working towards the overhang. No idea wher...

Description 

Bolted limestone, it is a long walk to the rock, but there are some really nice climbs.


Getting There 

Heading North on 151 out of Monticello Iowa, turn right on Richmond, take Richmond Road till it tees out on Butterfield Road, and turn right. Stick with Butterfield Road where you have to turn right at the four way stop to stay on Butterfield and follow it down into the park. There are two parking lots, one right after you enter the park and one down by the river. The top parking lot is closer to most of the bolted climbs.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Indian Bluffs:
Spearhead   5.7     Sport, 25 feet   
Crap Attack   5.8-     Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet   
Flavor Blasted Spermacide   5.9     Sport, 45 feet   
Talent Show   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Doin' the Smurf   5.11a/b     Sport, 40 feet   
In Through the Outhole   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Ward off   5.11b     Sport, 60 feet   
No Response   5.11c     Sport, 50 feet   
Boiler   5.11c     Sport, 35 feet   
C N Red   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   
Between the Sheets   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Drillin' Hoes   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 20 feet   
Fighting Fish   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch   
El Diablo   5.12b     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Indian Bluffs

Featured Route For Indian Bluffs
Working past the first crux on Go Left.

Go Left 5.10a  IA : Indian Bluffs
Chossy for the first 50 feet with a minicrux about 25 feet up. The chossy minicrux can be avoided...by going left ( a couple feet ) to solid rock with a couple of hard to spot bomber holds.The fun starts for the last 10 feet where it is overhanging and juggy....[more]   Browse More Classics in IA


Photos of Indian Bluffs Slideshow Add Photo
Cave frame

Cave frame

Dustin again, another unknown wall name

Dustin again, another unknown wall name

Jonny on unknown route.  Rating, maybe 5.8, location, farthest left side of "Boneless Chicken Wing" wall.

Jonny on unknown route. Rating, maybe 5.8, locati...

Natural arch.

Natural arch.

Indian Bluffs Topo Map

BETA PHOTO: Indian Bluffs Topo Map

detail scan of local topo map

detail scan of local topo map

What do you mean, you got lost on the way to IB?

What do you mean, you got lost on the way to IB?

Hourglass Buttress

Hourglass Buttress

Left of the Hourglass

Left of the Hourglass

Boulevard Wall

Boulevard Wall


Comments on Indian Bluffs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Langlois
From: NYC
Nov 18, 2008

Hey glad to see more Iowa stuff is going up on MP. Do you have better directions to these places? Are some of these climbs on private land?

By Jim H
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 12, 2008

Hey, could you remember to include the nearest city in your directions. Those of us who are not locals would really appreciate it

By moss1956
Feb 27, 2009

Jim H,
I am not sure what you mean, unless you mean to say that Monticello
is not a city.
Moss

By crimpandpeel
Jun 9, 2009

If you do find this park, a good idea is to try and get a guide of some sort or a local to show you the routes to get on and ones not to. there are some pretty fun climbing routes here and you should not have any issues with routes on private land here, but there are routes on PRIVATE land in Iowa. If you happen upon this place, and you will know you are not where you should be, best to turn around and go back the way you came. there are draws hanging on some routes and are not free for the taking-remember it's private property and if caught climbing, you will be walked off the property and into the open arms of the law.

so get a guide book and enjoy the climbing we really need to protect

By Kaner
From: Eagle
Jun 11, 2009

Hi crimpandpeel,
Where would one find a guidebook for Indian Bluffs?
Do you live in the area? I'm in Dubuque and would like to see more of Indian Bluffs. Very cool area and I've only seen maybe 1/2 of the routes. I hear there's 30+.
Thanks

By Jon Lauters
From: Boulder, Co
Jul 1, 2009

Hey Ryan,

There is an outdated general guidebook for Eastern Iowa. I have a copy/plus some other material on the area you can have if you like. I'm not sure how useful the guide is, as by the time I came across it, I knew my way around most the places in Iowa. I know IB pretty well, even crimpandpeel's super cool Blue Groove Wall. Sadly I don't have a whole lot of time left in Iowa before I move. IB is much nicer in the fall when the veg dies. There is hunting allowed on the land as well, so during hunting season be sure to wear bright colors - just to be safe.

There are some routes under voluntary closure which should not be climbed (Saving Grace, Wedding Bells, Louise)

By crimpandpeel
Nov 13, 2010

hey this comment goes out to the tool of a climber(s) having a fire at Hoot Bluff right by the wall where packs go and leaving a mess there, nice way to leave no trace, how about low key and hand warmers next time.

By L.Walton
From: Madison, WI
Feb 17, 2012

I wasn't around in 2010, but I was in 2011. I know I inadvertently messed up a bunch of hunter's weekend by camping with my dog (and probably in a bad location and having a fire). Sorry, I wasn't familiar with public land etiquette and hadn't read this forum before going. I just wanted to apologize to all of the hunters out there. Us climbers don't want to piss you off and we want to be able to share the land, if you see us messing up please let us know what we're doing wrong - what's common sense to you might not be for us, but we're more than willing to learn.

By Dan Roberts
From: Eastern Iowa
May 1, 2013

Could anyone shed some light on the Mother wall? A lot of unmentioned routes there. The route to the left of the arch was fun and would like a bit of info of what else there is to have fun with. Does the crack on Mother Wall go?

By crimpandpeel
May 22, 2013

Dan- that route is a pile by Iowa standards, a do it once and never again, there are quite a few really good climbs at I.B., trad as well- yes the crack has been done, I'm sure every crack out there has been done atleast once. Move to the right on MotherWall past the table rock and look up at a 80' party, C-N-Red 11c, super fun and there are 4 more to the right on a flanking wall, skip the first 2 and climb thwe other 2 on the right side of a crack, fun as well, I suggest you buy a guide book for the area or find a local to show you the best of the area- but i would get a book anyway. Enjoy