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Index Town Walls
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Bouldering Areas 
Country Area, The 
Diamond Area, The 
Inner Walls 
Lookout Point Area 
Lower Lump 
Lower Town Wall 
Middle Town Walls 
Side Walls, The 
Upper Town Wall 
Upper Wall Lower Cliffs 

Index Town Walls 


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Administrators: Jon Nelson, Peter Franzen, Kristine Hoffman, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 26, 2006

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Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
Thunderstorm
57° | 45°
Thunderstorm
61° | 34°
Chance of Rain
63° | 39°
Chance of Rain
66° | 37°
Mostly Cloudy
66° | 45°

Godzilla.
Photo by Blitzo.


Description 

Index contains possibly Washington's best granite climbing. It definitely is the most accessible and has the most variety, with cracks, knobs, friction slabs, bucket hauls, and thin edging.

The main attraction of the area is the spectacular crack climbing on fine-grained granite (not as abrasive than J-Tree or Leavenworth), but there is also sport climbing and many aid routes. The routes range from shorter single-pitch routes to long 500'-high walls. Index is known for its hard climbing, but still has many climbs of 5.9 and lower. And a lot of the harder climbs have more moderate first pitches (see below for a partial list).

Although rain can be more of an issue here than on the east-side, some steep routes can still be done in the rain. Moreover, summer conditions are often ideal, with cool shady spots for midday climbing. As most cliffs are partly south-facing, one can also climb here in winter.

The small mountain town of Index, just below the cliffs on the Skykomish River, provides a picturesque place to relax and enjoy other things as well.


Getting There 

Drive east on Highway 2. Several miles past Goldbar and soon after crossing the Skykomish, turn left onto the road that leads to Index. After going under the railroad, turn left on the arch-style bridge over the North Fork of the Skykomish. Go straight past the general store and town park to the T intersection at the second stop sign. For the Lookout Point Area, park somewhere around here in town. For the other walls, go left past the Bush House, over the tracks through town, taking a right where the road hits another T. Continue along the shaded road, which parallels the river. About a hundred yards or so past the camping spot is the Lower Town Wall parking lot on the right. In another hundred yards or so is a pull-off on the left for the Lower Lump.


Seasonal falcon closure at the Upper Town Wall 

See image below.

Falcon closure.
Falcon closure.
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on May 4, 2013


Camping 

Free and scenic camping exists just 100 yards or so towards town from the Lower Wall parking area. One can camp near the river or near their car.


Moderate Routes 

Though known as a place with only hard routes, Index has plenty of moderates (i.e., 5.9 or less). If you use the tool on the left side of this page, you can find over 50 full-length moderate routes. More exist in published guidebooks.

But in addition, quite a few of the harder multi-pitch routes have moderate first pitches. Some of these include

Lower Wall:
Sagittarius 5.9.
Tatoosh (original finish) 5.9.

Lookout Point Area:
Rattletale 5.9.
House of the Seventh Bobcat 5.9.

Upper Town Wall:
Davis-Holland 5.8.

Inner Walls:
Even Steven 5.8.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Index Town Walls:
Aires   5.8+     Trad, 5 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   Lower Town Wall : Great Northern Slab
Godzilla   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch   Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side
Toxic Shock   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch   Inner Walls : Notch, cave side (SW)
GM Route   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II   The Country Area : The Country
Princely Ambitions   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II   Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side
Breakfast of Champions   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Lower Town Wall : Great Northern Slab
Sagittarius   5.10a/b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side
Lovin' Arms   5.10b/c     Trad, 3 pitches   Upper Town Wall : Central Wall Area
Davis-Holland Route   5.10c     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   Upper Town Wall : Central Wall Area
Slow Children   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side
Cunning Stunt   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Country Area : The Country
Heaven's Gate   5.11a     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches   Upper Town Wall : Dana's Arch Area
Thin Fingers   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Lower Town Wall : Narrow Arrow and further ri...
Even Steven   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch   Inner Walls : Notch, cave side (SW)
Model Worker   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side
Natural Log Cabin   5.11c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet   Lower Town Wall : Narrow Arrow and further ri...
Japanese Gardens   5.11+     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side
Iron Horse   5.11d     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side
Stern Farmer   5.12b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation)   5.13- R     Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet   Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side
Browse More Classics in Index Town Walls

Featured Route For Index Town Walls
Breakfast of Champions

Breakfast of Champions 5.10a  WA : Index Town Walls : ... : Great Northern Slab
This is the second pitch of Roger's Corner. Take the obvious handcrack next to the tree. Straightforward, fun jams. You'll wish this went on for another 150 feet. A bonus is that it stays dry in the rain. There is an anchor on the ledge above, and you can toprope Marginal Karma, the 11b immediately to the right, from those bolts. You can also approach this from the top of GNS if you don't want to go up Roger's....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA


Photos of Index Town Walls Slideshow Add Photo
Mt. Index. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Mt. Index.
Photo by Blitzo.


Mt. Index. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Mt. Index.
Photo by Blitzo.


This is Index!

This is Index!

rainy day at index

rainy day at index

Walking the railroad tracks <br />

Walking the railroad tracks


Upper town wall just before the sport wall from the trail

Upper town wall just before the sport wall from th...

The top of upper town wall looking across  to Mt.Index

The top of upper town wall looking across to Mt.I...

Scenic and fun climbing at Lookout Point (start of HITAGA route).

Scenic and fun climbing at Lookout Point (start of...

Upper Town wall

Upper Town wall

The Golden Arch

The Golden Arch

January 2013 sunshine finally

January 2013 sunshine finally

Abraxas

Abraxas


Comments on Index Town Walls Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 30, 2011
By jonah
Feb 9, 2006

Everybody should get Darryl Cramer's excellent guide to the area, Sky Valley Rock. But for a temporary guide if you can't find his, try: www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/
Not as user friendly, but gives you an idea of the area.

By Spanish John
Mar 21, 2006

This is probably one of the most underrated climbing areas around; I hope it stays that way. I learned to climb there; I hope the climbing and the town never change.

By Eric8
From: boston
Apr 15, 2008

Most locals think the town walls are better than the cookie.

By dscramer
Dec 30, 2008

The FA dates for routes in the 1980s in both the Smoot and Cummins guides are for the most part very inaccurate. For example, the FFA of Clay was after 1984 and Sonic Reducer was climbed well before 1984.

By Drewsky
Dec 31, 2008

Edit: I took the FA dates out of most of the routes I've added because I have no independent knowledge of when they were climbed. I'll stick to giving first hand info about routes I've done or have had experience with.

By Paul Shultz
From: Hudson, Ma
Mar 15, 2009

I climbed here on the way back to Bellingham from the Bugaboos. I didn't do to many routes but its a gorgeous setting and I'd love to go back!

By Mike Rowley
Jan 21, 2011

Anyone have any information on EARLY spring climbing at Index? A buddy and I were thinking of heading up either late Jan or early Feb... What is weather typically like this time of year? Climbable? I appreciate any info!

By dscramer
Jan 21, 2011

Mike - I've climbed in a T-shirt and fully bundled up for winter conditions at Index this time of year. Usually it's pretty wet and not too cold. If the weather hasn't been clear for a week I would say it would not be worth the trip up from Smith unless you wanted to aid climb. You can free climb pretty quickly after the rains stop, it's just that your choice of routes is pretty limited.

By Kevin Volkening
Jun 30, 2011

Looking to do a mid summer trip (middle of July) and this looks to be a good cool option which isn't baking. Thoughts?