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This is a smaller crag with a handful of short, moderate, bolted routes in CCC. It is located on the West side of Tunnel 3. There are shared anchors for these routes. This is probably a crag for those seeking shade or desiring to fill out their wanderings within the canyon. The routes themselves are still shedding a bit. The slope below the crag remains somewhat loose and a challenge for a clean belay.
In Darren Mabe's excellent guidebook, he gives this crag no stars. However, I would have done the same based on my original visit; however, the rock has cleaned up enough to make it worth a trip and 0.8 stars.
You can get a cell phone signal here.
From Golden, drive west on US 6 up canyon just past the 3rd tunnel. Park on its West side, as for Anarchy Wall. Beware of causing accidents, since non-climbers won't expect folks to slow here. Hike up along the South or right side of the tunnel on a path uphill to the crag perhaps 50-100 feet from the rock. The slope just below the crag is quite loose and can be ascended, but then you might moan about it needing a trail. Note, there are bighorn sheep wandering this terrain. Some of them will even knock rocks onto the road.
Note, you could approach it from the east, just east of Tunnel 3, but that is less pleasant.
This route starts downhill from the tree in the gully. Belay across the gully. Crank on a hollow flake past the first bolt for a powerful start. Chase a right-facing flake then continue up the face past more cruxes, with the hardest crux at the top....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
The trail sucks, and there is still a lot of loose rock on the routes. I don't know how to resolve the trail issue, but I suggest that anyone climbing here not be afraid of doing a bit of route cleaning (bring appropriate tools). Once the loose stuff is gone, I suspect these may be quite decent routes, or at least viable alternatives for those who get suckered into going to the Anarchy Wall but can't even TR 12s.
The wall is basically the north face of Anarchy crag. Routes have fun moves, but the rock feels a little fragile, although nothing broke on me. Actually that makes climbing only more interesting. The only really bad thing about the crag is that all belay spots are on steep loose slope. It's impossible to keep your rope out of the dirt as it will slide off of rope bag. If anyone is going there, please bring a shovel and make a flat belay spot for one route. It's faster than washing a rope afterwards. I'm gonna do it myself next time I am there. It will bring the quality of the crag a full star up and will make excellent warm up for Anarchy.
Please don't take it upon yourself to initiate improvements at crags on Open Space lands. We are initiating a Trails Co-op volunteer program in Jefferson County where there will be an opportunity for interested members of the climbing community to get trained to do trail work at crags on Open Space lands. The program is in its infancy, and I would encourage you to come to our kick off meeting tonight at 5:30 PM to learn how you can contribute. The meeting will be held at the Open Space offices at:
700 Jefferson County Pkwy, Suite 100 Golden, CO The Ponderosa Room (Main Entrance)
Again, please don't initiate any improvements without them being sanctioned by Open Space. Rogue trail work is not looked upon in a positive light by land managers and does not further our cause in terms of access, and being viewed as a responsible user group.
Mike Morin Outdoor Recreation Management Coordinator Jefferson County Open Space
I climbed the routes at this crag yesterday and must say I was surprised at the quality and mostly solid rock we climbed on. Sure there are some loose bits here and there, but overall these routes have cleaned up decently well and were fun. I would also say they mostly seemed like 5.10s, not 5.11s, so maybe some things have broken or cleaned off and offered better holds to work with. Like others have stated, the belay spots can be a bit tricky but managable. Not a classic destination but not nearly as bad as some have made it seem, I was glad to have finally gone up the hill and done these ones.