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Unsorted Routes:

Indecision 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Guy Gary, Roger Peck '78
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: Jonathon French on Jun 28, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Left side of arete
Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the arÍte between Cake Walk and Baby Dehedral. This route is a weird one with sloapers and pinchers. Resist the urge to hug the whole rock, it'll stalemate ya.


Location 

The arÍte between Cake Walk and Baby Dehedral


Protection 

Top rope only, theres a bolt, but its rusted and useless.



Photos of Indecision Slideshow Add Photo
Several climbs near Indecision.
BETA PHOTO: Several climbs near Indecision.
Comments on Indecision Add Comment
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By allquieton
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Jun 29, 2011

Anyone familiar with Indecision and Digitalis? Do they share any holds? I posted a photo placing these two routes, but it's a lot of guesswork. If you have better information, let me know.

By ChrisL
Jul 16, 2011

I can see these routes being distinguished based on the initial moves, but I (and my climbing partners) have only managed to do the arete moves on the left-hand side. Perhaps the routes merge halfway up?

By allquieton
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Jul 20, 2011

The Kennedy/Hubbard guide lists Indecision as 5.9 and Digitalis as 10a.

Messier lists Indecision as 10b and Digitalis as 5.9.

I was climbing around on these this morning. I don't see any way to stay right of the arete for the whole climb. So I'm thinking Digitalis must head left at some point--probably like you say, at the halfway point.

The only way I could see Indecision being as hard as 10b is if all holds right of the arete are off. Which I tried unsuccessfully, but it seems like it would go. The single (broken) bolt is pretty far left, so I wonder if this was the intent.

I'm inclined to think that Digitalis is just an alternate start for Indecision, and that holds on both sides of the arete are fair game for both climbs. They both seem about 5.9 to me. But if anyone knows more about these two climbs feel free to chime in.