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Eagle Canyon
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Are You Lichen It? 
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Indecent Insertion 
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Mr. Wong's Zipper 
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Unnamed Right 

Indecent Insertion 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: John Duran
Page Views: 175
Submitted By: WAGbag on Apr 24, 2011
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Description 

The well defined rounded arete starts off with some fun pockets on either side of the arete, heel hooks, and a relatively obvious sequence. Then it changes mood and turns into a maze of tiny pockets that are nearly impossible to discern without a previous dusting of chalk (a common condition it appears for this crag). It is possible, though not easy, to step left and gain a no-hands rest, but probably best to stay on the arete until you hit the horizontal break - then it's 5.7 from there.


Location 

Obvious bolted arete with a bolt down low to keep the belayer from falling out of the gully.


Protection 

7ish bolts and shares anchors with Killer Bee



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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 25, 2011

On my OS / flash I ended up all over the ledge and subsequent no-hands rest as it was the only good hold around and my less than perfect sequence took me over that way. Haven't decided yet if the route was meant to go over there or not, probably not as the FA seemed to make an effort to keep the bolts around the corner. So the purer and better way is probably to stay on the arete.

3 stars for the super cool and unique starting moves.