From the scooped ledge above Amazing Grace, the route climbs out left, around the corner onto a large slab that forms the upper and southern section of the West Face of North Gateway Rock.
P1) Step up and left around the corner, being careful of loose rock and clip a decent fixed pin. Above this you can place a high #0.75 Camalot, but then step back down and left for an airy 5.7 traverse move to a good ledge with another piton. From here, continue traversing up and left along a crack/seam feature with some bushes in it. You can place a #0.4 Camalot and higher up a #1 Camalot along this crack (you may even want to sling a bush, although it probably wouldn't hold). Continue above the bushes just left of the crack up perfect potholes to the anchor which consists of 1 drilled piton and an old Leeper-Z piton that sticks half way out. (5.7 R, 130 feet)
P2) Climb above the anchor to the top of a pillar and clip an OK piton. Continue up on easy but loose terrain past 2 worthless pitons, to a fourth piton which seems a little more solid, but still seems questionable. From here, you can traverse right to the ridge crest, where you can place a yellow C3 Camalot (1/2"). Then climb the ridge, with another good placement for the #0.4 Camalot to a new 2-bolt anchor at the top of the wall. You can also climb straight up past the last piton, but a fall here could be tragic. (5.6 R/X, 130 feet)
The X rating in the description is due to the long runouts on the second pitch, with quite worthless protection. The climbing is easy but very loose and requires a cool head. If you fall off this pitch, it's possible that you could rip all the protection (although I hope the first piton would hold). Falling directly onto the anchor in this scenario could possibly generate enough force to rip the anchor (although I personally think it would hold, but the Leeper-Z makes me wonder). Similarly, don't fall prior to clipping the first piton on the first pitch. The first pitch is also scary and runout, but doesn't feel quite as sketchy, and at least the anchor at the start of the climb seems bomber. Either way, long whippers are a distinct possibility on this climb, and will make you wonder if your protection would hold. But for those that are ready and willing to take on this type of Garden adventure, the climbing and the position is amazing.
This route begins from the large scooped out ledge in the West Face of North Gateway Rock, which is formed by the Tweedle Dum Spire on the south and the main formation of North Gateway Rock to the north. The scoop is also at the top of Amazing Grace (the hard face climb just left of The Warren Route).
Approach by scrambling up the Tourist Gully almost to its top. Look for the easiest access to gain the ridge of the rock that is to the west (climber's left). There is an obvious notch to look for which is higher than the notch formed by the base of the the Tweedle Dum Spire. Once you've accessed the ridge you have two options. The original route down-climbs the ridge at 5.4 with limited pro to the saddle below the Tweedle Dum Spire. From here, you can rappel 60' or so to the large scooped ledge above Amazing Grace (chain anchors - from here you can rappel 150' to the ground). Alternatively, you may avoid down-climbing the ridge by carefully accessing a 2-pin anchor just below the notch. This is an exposed maneuver, but leaves a direct 100' rappel down to a two-pin anchor above and to the left of the chain anchors for Amazing Grace. This is the start of the climb. (You can also approach by climbing Amazing Grace or the first pitch of Falling From Grace).
This route is somewhat tricky in trying to put it in a rational subarea for North Gateway Rock. It lies on the West face, but the easiest approach is from the Tourist Gully. Still, it can be approached via The Zipper, The Warren Route, and Amazing Grace. So, it's a challenge for the hierarchical organization on this website.
P1) 2 or 3 pins, #0.4 - #1 Camalots. 2 pin anchor.
P2) 4 pins, yellow C3 Camalot, #0.4 Camalot. 2 new bolts anchor.
Tag the summit, then descend by walking north on a large ledge on the West face, then going back through a notch to the east, with a short down-climb to gain a large ledge on the East face. Walk back south to access the top of the Tourist Gully and down-climb from there.
Pitch one, after making the crux move. The climbi...
This is a photo copied from Tim Stich on the North...
Nearing the top of pitch two. This pitch is quite...
|By Stewart M. Green|
Oct 20, 2008
This used to be a great climb and was very popular at one time. I did it at least 25 times. Now, however, it is not recommended due to the very bad fixed pitons. As noted in the description above, most of those on pitch 2 would not hold a fall. Many of them have been almost eroded out. Because of this I am planning to reestablish the route with modern hardware....