BETA PHOTO: Revised photo of P Wall. Note the added bolts and...
Add Photo Add Comment Printer View
This route is a great way to get out onto P-Wall. It starts in the steep gully to the left of P-wall (climb 2 in the topo), ascending the "flank", and then stepping out onto the face. Slot a small Camalot at the start to protect the starting moves. Climb up, making awkward moves that demand attention. At the arete, clip the last bolt and make a thin and airy traverse directly across to anchors. Either rap P-crack or continue up "Letterman."
Three bolts with some small gear placements possible. Tops out at bolted P-Crack belay.
|By Chad Hinkle|
Feb 17, 2004
One star is being generous on this route.
|By Jon Hanlon|
Apr 13, 2005
I recall the route has 3 bolts...2 on the side facing Garden Wall, and 1 shared with Out of Hangers.The route makes a sort of an "S" shape until you step out onto the P Wall.
On a humorous side note, I had my most memorable epic to date on this route. Mike Power and I (both overly-confident and underly-skilled new climbers) boldly made our way to the "East Buttress" of P-Wall. My sister and brother in law set up a picnic in the meadow armed with binoculars and a video camera. My niece was a newborn (she is now 15).
I got the lead, and set out towards my destiny. The buttress seemed awkward and scary to me, but hey, at that time life had no consequences...
Now, the higher I get, the more I begin to experience this phenomena I have read about, "exposure". I begin to marvel at how seemingly easy climbing is becoming exponentially difficult. This is 5.7 right? I gratefully clip the second bolt, with the shortest runner possible. Whew!
This is the point where, in hindsight, I made the critical decision. Having little experience, and zero cool, I decided that the route must go "wherever the next bolt is." I desperately scanned my surroundings and feasted my eyes on a hangerless bolt to my right (remember..."Out Of Hangers"). Certainly that wasn't the way. (If I had looked a little further, I would have seen the anchors.) I finally noted a lone bolt high above....obviously I should go there. Grateful for not having to use judgment, I gunned for the upper bolt. Today, I realize that at this point, I was on one of the peppier sections of Out of Hangers.
By the time I get to the bolt, I am really starting to sketch as I am looking at a 70 foot sledgehammer pendulum straight into the gully below. All I have to do is clip the bolt...OH SHIT...no hanger!! At this point in my climbing career, I have never heard of using a nut on a hangerless bolt. I stare dumbly at the bolt and feel my last few ounces of confidence drain out through the soles of my feet. I am screwed. I survey my surroundings...to top it all off, the anchors are now 25 feet right and 25 feet below me. Certain that I couldn't make it, but incapable of any modicum of a rational decision-making process, I set out to traverse and downclimb P Wall with the last bolt 35 feet below, and around the corner.....but at least the holds were small and covered with lichen.
I am not too proud to say that it was at this point that I shed a small tear. Small mewls were escaping from my quivering lips and I found myself wondering where the noises were coming from. These slight distractions might have taken some focus off the shaking feet and desire to vomit. I slowly passed tiny grooves that, no matter how hard I tried, would not accept my smallest nut. I vowed that if I lived through this, I would never leave the ground without nuts down to RPs. Feet skating, heart pounding, I inched towards the anchor. At least going down there was no more rope drag...I hoped Mike was taking in slack, but couldn't be sure.
I reached the anchor with a combined cry/moan. off belay, mike. I brought in slack as Mike's head appeared over the corner. He had the same panicked look in his eyes that I did. We hastily rapped and silently dashed off the hill. My sister casually announced that she had captured the climb on videotape, but it was probably pretty boring .
On the way out of town we stopped at Granite Stairway where I picked up #1, 0, and 00 stoppers for my rack. I have never left the ground without them.
|By Bob Hill|
Apr 13, 2005
I am not sure exactly about the bolt which you speak of, but it should be noted that there is another route up there called "Knee Surgery". Marty Brenner, my old boss at Bugaboo Mountain Sports in Santa Cruz, told me that he established this route in the early 90's while still a student at Poly as one of his first outdoor endeavors following a knee surgery. Perhaps this seemingly off route bolt goes with this climb?
|By Bob Hill|
Apr 14, 2005
John's got it right. I, unfortunately, was confused as usual!
Feb 13, 2006
The ancient Gulyash guide shows three bolts total on page 13, but then four bolts total on page 14. It also says to carry nuts (tiny to 2.5"). The old Tucker/Steele guide shows three bolts and then the bolt on Out of Hangers (four total). You used to be able to get gear in above the first bolt, but the crack that once held gear is now just a rattling block. The moves on the route are actually pretty fun, all the way through, especially the first 25'off the deck. But it is a tad dirty and now the middle section is a bit run out. You can still place a nut there, but it ain't gonna do any good if you fall. I couldn't find any evidence of a bolt inbetween the other two, but who knows (maybe James Blench?).
|By vincent L.|
Apr 2, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
There are three bolts on this route. it is run out and the second bolt is older than my grandma's rocking chair. you can get a blue alien in between the first and second bolts behind a block but it inspires little confidence.
the climb is mungy, and it is harder than 5.7, closer to 5.9