Indecent Exposure Variation 5.7
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Description This is the very highly recommended variation on Standard Thumb.
Pitch one:Start up the gully for about 20 feet and then move onto the right wall up steep cracks (fun moves) to the tree filled gully. Continue up through the trees and belay where the trees end.
Pitch two:Climb the great hand/arm crack continuing up and to the right until you come to a roof. Undercling to the right and up onto lunch ledge and an obvious belay.
You now have a few choices... up the awesome S-direct, up the classic trough pitch, or rappel.
Protection Standard trad rack, long runners to girth hitch trees.
| Comments on Indecent Exposure Variation |
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By Nathan Fisher
Aug 22, 2004
rating: 5.7
| 2 great sections of climbing. The lower twin cracks, that I thought were the best, and the upper crack. Unfortunately they are divided by a lengthy forest!!! |
By Tea
Feb 26, 2006
| The "Jungle Gym" in the middle of the pitch does detract a bit...but definatly still the variation of choice to get to lunch ledge. |
By Mark Gillis
Jul 1, 2006
| Really fun unless you have a haul bag. Maybe it is because i don't know how to properly haul, but it took me and my buddy at least an hour to haul our bags up the first pitch of this variation. Other then that i would much prefer this variation over the dirty gully of the standard thumb. Oh yeah about half way up the "jungle" there is another variation, like a 5.5 traverse, that takes you to the killer 5.8 trough above the crux of s-crack. |
By JFA
Jul 27, 2006
| haul bag? |
By Mark Gillis
Jul 29, 2006
| yeah dawg, we were sleeping on lunch ledge so we tried a haul bag. Probably a bad idea. |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jan 21, 2009
| 2nd trad lead for me. Good solid moves for the beginning leader. |
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 14, 2009
| Our favorite way to get to lunch ledge was always to cut right at the appropriate spot and belay at the start of the S-cracks 5.8 groove pitch. Its a great crack pitch that although a bit wide does not require any big gear. Up to a 3 or 3.5 camalot should be sufficient. |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 5, 2009
rating: 5.7+
| You can avoid doing battle with the trees by staying on the left face. When the double cracks fade out shoot straight up in a system of discontinuous shallow cracks. A bit runout, probably 5.8ish, and a bit dirty. Seems like this line puts you between Indecent Exposure and Higher Expectations. Did it again yesterday and touched exactly 1 tree at the belay. Definitely the way to go. |
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