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Incorporating open hand/extension into Max Weight Hangs
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By Jonathan Metzman
From Blacksburg, VA
Feb 4, 2014
Morning Dew 12a, NRG

I've been hangboarding for 2 years and gone from the rockprodigy method to the Eva Lopez max weight hangs. I am currently 3/4 of the way through my 5th cycle. My sesh last night was 70 lbs involved 3 sets of 10 sec max weight half crimp hangs, 3 minute rest, on the smallest crimp of the metolius 3d simulator.

I've seen a definite improvement on crimps outside, which I would hope would be attributed to the hanging. However, my open hand strength still lags dramatically behind on my projects with more open hand grips. The majority of my long standing projects have involved open hand/extension grip endurance/cruxes.

Does anyone have any experience with adding open hand/extension grips into the max weight routine? Should the grip be alternated with the half crimp sets, add sets in before/after the half crimp sets, or done on another day/phase altogether? My plan is to do my usual 3 sets of half crimps @ max weight, then do 3 sets of extension grip @ a much lower max weight. I do wonder how much of the forearm/tendon specificity crosses over from the half crimp/extension, and if combining in the same day would take away too much.


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By Jonathan Metzman
From Blacksburg, VA
Feb 5, 2014
Morning Dew 12a, NRG

Factored in 3 sets extension grip @ 40 lbs on the small slimpers of the V5.12 board tonight after 3 sets on the small crimps. It felt like it was hitting a different part of the forearm and thus seemed suitable to add to the workout.

I have seen in several videos that the half crimp applies to all grip strengths. This might be true for the full crimp, but IMO not for the open hand strength.


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By WillamR
Feb 6, 2014

Open hand strength with strengthen crimp/half crimp, but the reverse is not true.


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By Jon Rhoderick
Feb 6, 2014

1: are you using open and and extension interchangeably? I've only heard of open hand.
2: which slimper are you talking about on the V5.12, the outer, middle, or inner? Mad props for 40 lbs on any of those.
3: I think a major variable is the total volume in these sessions. What other grips are involve in your workouts? 6 total sets seems fine, you'll get a little fatigue from your half crimp sets but you'll be getting stronger.
4: 70lbs seems like a lot for a grip, are you thinking about training an even smaller half crimp?
I'm not a hangboard expert by any means but maybe those questions could help.


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By Jonathan Metzman
From Blacksburg, VA
Feb 6, 2014
Morning Dew 12a, NRG

In the eva lopez hangboard technique video she shows the different grip types:



Its hard to say if I'm doing extension or open hand, but I am trying to relax my grip as much as possible, while still holding on (~180-135 degrees between bottom and mid knuckle). The half crimp is maintained at a solid right angle (90 degrees between bottom and mid).

The slimpers are the very middle-bottom hold on the board. You can probably do a lot more weight than you expect, with the max weight hangs. When I first tried hanging on them, body weight seemed like it would be hard, but after trying different ranges of weight, 40 lbs seemed like 90% max weight.

Volume is definitely an issue, and thats why I was wondering if anyone thought that 6 total sets would be too much. I can feel tired on the half crimp grip, but the open hand felt fine when I started that set. My forearms are definitely feeling more sore than usual today, but more volume will do that.


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By Sys Ex
From Lake Forest, CA
Feb 6, 2014

The difference between open hand and extension is the engaging of the pinky. The more you engage your pinky the more it causes (or forces) your other digits to go into half-crimp and also pulls more on the outside of your wrist.

I try to train open handed as much as possible and rarely do crimp style hangs. Open hand is best trained on slopers, in my experience.

I too have also heard that open grip trains half crimp/full crimp whilst training crimps does nothing for open hand, but I can't fully attest to that.


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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Feb 6, 2014

Sys Ex wrote:
I too have also heard that open grip trains half crimp/full crimp

My personal experience, and many of my climbing partners', contradict that.


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By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From Aspen, CO
Feb 6, 2014
Pup Tent OS

WillamR wrote:
Open hand strength with strengthen crimp/half crimp, but the reverse is not true.


This statement is not at all true in my experience. Open hand training will strengthen open hand. Half crimp training will strengthen half crimp. Full crimp training will strengthen full crimp. It's important to train all 3 (this of course assumes you are experienced enough in training that you can do it without getting injured)

EDIT: reboot beat me to it; I agree with him.


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By slim
Administrator
Feb 6, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

WillamR wrote:
Open hand strength with strengthen crimp/half crimp, but the reverse is not true.


reboot and alvaro beat me to it. you need to train whatever you want to get stronger. there is very little, if any, crossover. despite this misguided quote and whatever source it came from.


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