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Incorporating hangboard training into climbing routine
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By JamesMichelinie
Aug 22, 2011
So a friend just gave me a hangboard and I'm excited to incorporate it into my climbing. It's a metolius simulator and I've printed their training plans. I'm curious how I go about incorporating this training into my climbing routine?

Currently I climb ~3 times a week, combination of gym (bouldering and ropes) and outside (mostly sport). Do I do hangboard on non-climbing days? On climbing days? Instead of climbing days?

Thanks for your thoughts.

Cheers,
James

Edit:
Update after my first session. So I completed my first workout today. I did the 10 minute basic workout from the metolius program. I have mixed feelings. Most of them were super easy and a few were very tough, so that's good I suppose in terms of identifying weakness. Overall, it didn't feel like enough of a workout. 15 minutes or so afterwards I felt totally fine and strong enough to in theory go through the workout again. So I suppose this means I have to either add weight, or move to the intermediate program?

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By Ryan Stott
From Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 25, 2011
Uintas
This is a very good question, and I've been wondering the same thing, and the amount/style of climbing sounds about the same. If I'm at a gym, I will sometimes fininsh off with a hangboard routine. However, if I'm climbing heavy outside 2-3 times a week, I don't think I can afford time for a hangboard. I think I would need to simply either focus on training, or focus on climbing. Mixing the two doesn't seem to work. If there are ways to do so, I'd like to hear about it.

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By Mike McKinnon
From Golden, CO
Aug 25, 2011
Bunny pancake
Ryan Stott wrote:
This is a very good question, and I've been wondering the same thing, and the amount/style of climbing sounds about the same. If I'm at a gym, I will sometimes fininsh off with a hangboard routine. However, if I'm climbing heavy outside 2-3 times a week, I don't think I can afford time for a hangboard. I think I would need to simply either focus on training, or focus on climbing. Mixing the two doesn't seem to work. If there are ways to do so, I'd like to hear about it.


Why would you hangboard at the end of your session when you are already wiped? Quality over quantity. You need to set specific goals for your hangboarding and build a routine around those goals.

There is plenty of good info on the interwebz about this.

Personally, for me I can only climb outside 2x week due to kids. So I use a focused hangboard regime like a 3rd day.

Sat Or Sun climb all day.

Tues/Thurs climb after work

Tues/Thurs hangboard. Doing repeaters

Mon/Wed/Fri - high intensity gym workout on opposing muscles with cardio

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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 25, 2011
Ryan Stott wrote:
If I'm at a gym, I will sometimes fininsh off with a hangboard routine.

Doing a high intensity workout when you are tired and sloppy is a surefire way to injure yourself.

To the original poster, we have no idea what your skill level or goals are. Defining a training plan without a starting or ending point is an exercise in futility.

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By Mike Anderson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 25, 2011
I doubt these workouts are that intense.

A lot has been posted about this stuff already, if you do a search you'll find some stuff.

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