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Cliffs of Insanity
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YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
Season: north facing
Page Views: 610
Submitted By: charley graham on Jan 7, 2010
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A right facing enduro corner with a roof at the end which is just sandy enough to make you over-grip and pump out. There is a good reason to go for it at the roof...


Between MC's Hammer and Nurse Ratchet at the Cliffs of Insanity.


A lot of red camalots, a few green camalots, and a couple smaller pieces.

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By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2011

I have no clue how this route isn't considered a classic. There is a little bit of poor rock at the very beginning then it's tight #1 camalot / baggy .75 camalot the whole way up to the roof. #1 at the roof and a .75 past it get you to the chains. Awesome climbing. Very similar to Quarter of a Man, both in size and that there is relief on edges outside the crack. Get on it! Sick line.

By D-Storm
Apr 25, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

It's a fun route with a crisp crack and a great finish, but in comparison to many other routes at this cliff, its sandy nature precludes it from classic status. A slightly harder version of Layaway Plan, black Metolious cams would be the gear of choice here, I think, though the tight red Camolots were OK, with a wide .75 placement here and there.