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 ADVANCED
Morning Glory Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Book of Dissent T 
Brown Flake T 
Crack of Doom T 
Easiest Route T 
Fall Line S 
Incisor T 
Morning Glory S 
Power Tools S 
Reach for the Sky T,S 
Siesta S 
Skyline T 
Strategic Defense T 
Veal Cage S 

Incisor 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,755
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: the incisor on the left.

Description 

If this had a better name, it would get more traffic! This is a fun, well protected pitch between Strategic Defense and Crack of Doom. Good crack climbing, stemming, and some body english will see you through two chimneys and a memorable roof. Good clean fun. If you've come to climb Skyline and it is busy - jump on this worthy alternative.


Location 

Between Strategic Defense and Crack of Doom - look for the obvious chimney.


Protection 

Cams from fingers to #3 Camalot and wires. Bolts + chains on top (shared with Strategic Defense)



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By krbuckingham
Nov 30, 2011

I recall there being an alternative to working the roof - tunneling up a true chimney. Rather than go out to the roof, cut in and right and there's a squeeze that's barely wider than your hips (front to back). If you have some badunkadunk or extra gear, this will probably be not much fun. For me, it is what made this climb memorable. Complete enclosed-ness except for straight up.