|The For Real Canyon
The opening moves on this route are stiff. Great face climbing all the way to the chains.
This is on the upper ramp on the left side of canyon just past Real Black Velvet. Stand GENTLY on starting block, clip in, and now the business is IN YOUR FACE.
Cams- from a #1 Camalot down and a couple of wires mid-size. Locking 'biners on the first draw suggested. Some long slings for rope drag will help. Belay down low.
|By Buster Jesik|
Sep 17, 2009
Some of the bolts are in really funky spots, and some just create horrible rope drag. That's what happens when you bolt on lead! Still a good route, if you can downclimb to back clean the funky bolts.
|By Kevin McLaughlin|
From: Colorado Springs
Nov 8, 2009
A few long runners take care of any rope drag. Simple, single pitch rope management skills are all that is required. Enjoy.
|By Joe Sambataro|
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I blew a small flake exiting the upper corner. I'd say the climb has two solid cruxes now :)
|By Glenn Schuler|
From: Monument, Co.
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
NNNOOOOOOOOOooooooooo!!! Not "the" flake for the traverse move? Did it leave any type of hold to use?
We did it Saturday, and I was commenting to my partner that if there was ever a hold I would consider gluing, that would be the one. Bummer.
Jun 17, 2014
I ripped off the good bit of the left hand start hold 6/14/2014, sorry. Maybe .11+ start now. A bit strange of a route.