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 ADVANCED
Jewels and Gems
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Diamond and Coal T 
Family Jewels T 
In The Buff T,TR 
In The Rough T 
North Country Club Crack T 
Pearl necklace  T 
Shaky Spider T,TR 

In The Rough 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 950
Submitted By: Rafiki on Jul 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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In The Rough 5.7+

Description 

In The Rough is a nice crack that passes through a small roof at the top. The climb is mediocre until you get on the face under the roof..interesting moves, but not difficult.
Variation - Climbing the small corner to the left is 5.9.

Location 

On the right side of Jewels and Gems. Just look for the roof.

Protection 

The gear is good. I do remember a small run-out in the middle because the crack was wide and flaring..nothing serious. I think I used a BD#4 in the bottom of that section. The crux is protected.


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By doligo
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The roof is mild by Gunks standards, but has so-so gear. OW is harder than it looks - don't they all?
By Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady
Feb 28, 2013

I love this crack. The weird layback possibilities, small offwidth, good hand jams up high, and a micro roof. Its not steep, it has lots of rope drag once you top out, but I rate it five stars I think its the best on this wall. Different strokes for different folks, my significant other hates it. The short coming is the non-anchor situation the second will have to be brought up from the top unless you put in a gear anchor just past the roof or use that dead tree to the right.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Aug 19, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We used a medium sized tree behind the rap station as the primary anchor and set a couple directionals for a good TR setup. Fun climb, lots of variety. The roof move was awkward. IMO it was the least interesting section on the climb.