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Large Roof Area
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In the Pink 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Nate Postma, 1990
Page Views: 575
Submitted By: Chris treggE on Jul 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

From the Big Roof, walk back left along the wall until you hit 3 bolt lines on a big flake. This is the left line. The crux is about 10-12 feet up where there is a strange sequence of shallow holds, several of which are often wet. After the crux it eases up and is blocky to the top. If I remember right, it shares anchors with the next route to the right, Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood. It's tricky and I think harder than the 11a rating the guidebook gives it.

  • RCM&W #118, p. 138

Protection 

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.


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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 2, 2007

This was almost as long a project for me as Living All Over Me, which I think means it's tricky. Hard to read from below and even while you're on it. Surprsingly difficult crux section.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Sep 23, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Something broke off this route? Chris, I climbed it together with Steve Leclerc and we both felt it was much harder than Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood just to the right. More like a solid 12a.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 23, 2007

Yeah, I really thought 11a was way sandbagged. It was almost worse trying it thinking it was 11a and getting shut down. You're probably right something broke. The rock is chossy enough that a big key handhold could have broken... Oh well, it is what it is. It's also the only route I've ever been dropped to the deck on, to have added insult to an injured ego. Hope you climbed something better than this climb today also...
By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 23, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Yeah! I also thought this was sandbagged. Real tricky on bad holds if I remember right. I think I'll say 11d.

Is there another Chris with an opinion? :)
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Sep 24, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

It's definitely not the prettiest of them routes out there. Even for Red Wing standards. It kinda looks like you could catch some nasty STD from it if you're not careful :)
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 24, 2007

Especially after you and Steve have been on it!
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Sep 25, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

We'll make sure to disinfect ourselves next time.
By Jonathan Williams
From: Minneapolis
Aug 30, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I think this is only 11a. I think that the jug 3 feet from the third bolt is on the route, and with that hold on, it's only 11a. If you take that hold off, you could make it a lot harder, but with some good technique, it really isn't all that bad. My partner and I onsited it.