|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||roddack on Apr 22, 2008|
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Dec 30, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
I believe the first part of this climb is called "Wet Corner". You can lead this first short pitch to a tree belay or two bolts on the big ledge and then continue up in the two ways described, or you can climb it as one pitch, or just end it there.
I found the right variation, going up the crack with the tree growing out of it to a low angled corner much better protected than the left. Though the only real climbing on the right variation is found within the first 15 or so feet, then it's a mellow scramble with one last easy move to the bolts. The left variation has two bolts for intermediate pro up to and on a bulge.
Left variation is run out to two bolts, right variation ends at two bolts w/rap rings.
By Mark Daubenschmidt
From: South Burlington
Aug 21, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
|Left variation is fairly run out, unless you have a #4 or 5 C4 :). Tried a direct finish but couldn't find any pro, traversed back to the left for the bolts and finish. Has anyone done this direct??|
May 24, 2012
|There are two "left variations". They both start on the large flake and I wouldn't call either run out. Climb either the right or left side of the flake (#3 camalot) then either break left for the two bolts and end at a two bolt anchor, or (better) climb straight up the slab and angle left into the dihedral. Gear is kind of fiddly but is all there. You can also climb a slab pitch to the left of the wet corner that ends on the ledge at the flake, this makes a better first pitch IMO.|