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In The Groove 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Art Gran, Al DeMaria & Jim Mays 1963
Page Views: 1,614
Submitted By: SethG on Jun 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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As one pitch with doubles...

Description 

Ascending an appealing natural line, In The Groove climbs an obvious corner with nice moves on the easy side of 5.6, and is a good warm-up for other nearby climbs.

P1: Start up the corner, using the crack and face holds on the left to advance. At the roof about 15-20 feet up step left and continue following the corner upwards. There is a crux bulge, but in my opinion all of the climbing is pretty straightforward 5.6 or easier, and is well-protected. As you get higher there are numerous left-facing flakes in the corner that provide good holds. At about the 80 foot level, there is a dirt ledge at which you can build an optional gear belay-- I did not; I finished the climb as a single pitch.

Original P2: A shorter, easier pitch. After a few more moves upward, the rock to the right eases off to a stairway of blocks up which it is easy to climb to a large oak tree with a rap station. Dick Williams describes this as a dying oak tree in his 2004 guide but as of June 2010 it seemed to me to be very much alive and thriving (but see comment below; as of 2013, not so alive). From here, a single 60 meter rope rap just makes it to the ground.

Direct finish: Williams describes a new direct finish in his 2004 guide, which climbs straight up from the end of pitch 1 to a small roof (crux), after which one climbs straight to the top.

I explored up to the roof, found the hold just under the roof to be a bit less of a jug than I expected, and then couldn't tell where to go. There is a lot of lichen over the roof and it seemed unclear to me whether to go left or right; there were no obvious holds I could see. It did not appear this variation had seen a ton of traffic. The tree at the top is higher than the traditional finish, so you will likely need two ropes to rap, or you can walk a short distance to the Ursula rap station, which will get you down with a single rope in two raps.

Location 

About 45 feet to the right and uphill from Groovy, at the obvious clean, left-facing corner with a roof above at 15-20 feet and numerous left-facing flakes above that.

Protection 

Standard rack. Plenty of pro.


Photos of In The Groove Slideshow Add Photo
A succesful return back to the first climb I ever tried to lead on gear.
A succesful return back to the first climb I ever ...

Comments on In The Groove Add Comment
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By JSH
Administrator
Jun 9, 2010

The start is often non-negotiably wet in early season (or winter, when one might use, say, golf shoes. Who knows?).

The rock on P2 is very suspect in places - my second broke a hold and fell, quite unexpectedly.
By LLee
From: New York, New York
Sep 1, 2010

A very nice climb. It was a little dirty, but with some fun moves. I did the original route which supposedly leads to a dead tree, but it looked pretty alive to me. It sits on a small but comfortable ledge directly above Silly Groove.
By doligo
Jul 26, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Nice climb but is a bit on a loose side, not something I'd feel comfortable running out or having an inexperienced belay on. I did the climb in one long pitch with a 60M rope all the way to the GT Ledge via the Direct Finish as per Dick Williams. I went straight up the last bulge/overhang over a shallow openbook - took me a while to figure it out as the holds are not obvious (like Seth said the jugs you reach for turn out to be slopers, but found a little key side pull that put the climb back into the 5.6 territory). The climb tops out 15 feet right from Ursula tree anchor.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 30, 2012

I've done the direct and traditional P2 (linking P1 and 2). The direct goes through the roof about 80 feet up (above a good optional belay ledge as described). It can be done, there are hands and the sequence adds up to 5.6 for me (tall/long reach). My follow was shorter and had to move left to take the traditional way up.

The traditional route goes left of the roof 80 feet up. It's a little runout but no ledge fall (can protect under the left end of the roof, just extend those runners!). Extend everything after this as well to avoid massive rope drag potential if linking the pitches. Haven't done the GT ledge finish since the tree up and right is comfortable and has rap rings.

The original start is almost always wet, needs a week of dry weather to be climbable. Not sure how good the moves are but the rest of the climb is great for the grade.
By Kurtz
Nov 6, 2012

It was wet so we detoured left a bit at the start. Linking the pitches worked well with a 60m rope. The route eats pro. I placed 14 pieces in 140 feet and was running low towards the end. Plan accordingly and consider rope drag. The direct finish is a little dirty but worth it and allows you to avoid the healthy/dying/dead oak tree. A loose protruding rock will wake you up when you step on it but does not seem ready to fall. Belayed from a nearby sturdy tree. There are 2 other tree rapp stations in sight but we used the High E rapp which is 35 yards climbers left.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
May 17, 2013

One of the few routes to be downgraded from its original rating. It was 5.7 in the 1964 guide.
By gcap
From: Tuxedo, NY
Oct 27, 2013

The old oak tree as described by Williams is in fact dead. Tons o sling on it + rings, but I wouldn't trust it. Give it a few knocks and you'll probably come the same conclusion. Scramble past it or finish with direct.