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The Pond
Routes Sorted
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Adamantasaurus Flacciphallicus PhD 
Adventure Quest  
Arete Horizon 
Beer and Dead Animals  
Big Weld Show, The 
Blisters in the Sun 
Casting Couch, The 
Casting Shadows 
Christmas Chocolate 
Chutes and Ladders  
Close Call 
Cowboy 
Cowgirl 
Crosses Are Free, The 
Date Rape 
Dead Pool 
Death Row 
Desert Devil 
Easy Pool 
Endomorph Man 
Fat Boy Goes to the Pond 
Follow Your Heart 
God Save The Ta Tas 
Great Short Route 
In Seam 
Is Nothing Sacred 
Just Can't Get Any 
Leave Your Money On the Dresser 
Loc-Tite 
Main Squeeze 
Mona Lisa 
Natural Wonder 
Next To Nothing 
Ninja School 
Noah's Ark 
Nothing But Air 
Nothing Lasts Forever 
Nothing Shocking 
Nothing To It 
Nothing's There 
Nothings Left  
Nothings Right 
Pocket Party 
Pocket Pow-Wow 
Pocket Pulling Pansies 
Pocket Puzzle 
Pocket Warmer 
Pompasfuc 
Pony Express 
Princess Jordini and Her Magic Flute  
Return From the Great Mormon Experience 
Rock Lobster 
Rocky Horror Picture Show 
Safe Pool 
Sappy Love Song 
Soft Parade, The 
Space Hog 
Takin it to the Street 
Time Share 
Weak Sister 
Winds of Change  
Youth is Beauty 
Unsorted Routes:

In Seam 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Fred AmRhein (2002)
Page Views: 1,312
Submitted By: David Arthur Sampson on Dec 16, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: In Seam (January 2014)

Description 

Nice route. The crux is just above the first horizontal. I liked the variation in the moves on this climb.


Location 

Located just right of Casting Shadows, the route follows the obvious vertical seam in the face (hangers are located climbers left of the seam). The wall is just after the main (tallest)wall with the classic climb "The soft Parade".


Protection 

Eight bolts with shuts.



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By kirra
May 23, 2008

FA: October 2002, Fred AmRhein

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 11, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

A thoughtful route that helps prep for "Soft Parade." Welcome relief from the overhanging pocket pulling!

By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Jan 31, 2011

Great line! Suffers a bit from unnecessary bolts, but a fun and different climb for the area.

By Adam-phx-trad
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 30, 2012

tried this route having no idea what the rating was because it was not listed in my book. This resulted in my first fall outdoors and was it ever fun and exciting. later found out it was a 10.c now i know why i fell. great route fun climbing. i will be back to complete this route.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 5, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Hey Adam, if that was you on Sunday you almost had it. Glad to see you kept at it....'til failure. Next time you'll know what to expect. Good luck!

By Fred AmRhein
Apr 6, 2012

Roman,

Sorry to hear of your dismay at the overabundance of bolts on the route. As the FA on this one and a few others nearby, I'll explain.

If you are referring to the bolts near the crack at the beginning; I bolted the crack for the simple reason that The Pond is a sport climbing area and I just followed the ethic. There's probably no clear cut rationale here that will make die-hard gearheads happy, but it is a sport area and I respect that.

I debated whether to bolt the crack here (and on Mona Lisa too) but decided that the bolts would probably allow for more people to enjoy the terrain given the lack of trad gear laden visitors. I could have made a statement by using my stoppers and hexes in the crack, my tri-cams in the various pockets, and cams in the horizontals, but why? It's a sport area and the tradition there is to primarily pack in a rope, various shoes, plenty of draws, and lots of sunscreen.

If the bolts are simply too close together down low I guess it's just a habit. I tend to place bolts closer together near the ground and try to spread them out further up. (Witness the top nearby up high on The Big Weld Show where some people think it's actually run out)

I suppose bolting is a bit of an art, not a science. I guess I've come to feel that most people want to go home after sport climbing to their families and friends and I'd rather try to err on the side of safety when putting routes up in such an area. I may not always succeed but I try, like I said, it's somewhat of an art not necessarily a science.

Just my personal view.

Fred

By Jimbo
Apr 6, 2012

Fred I concur with your reasoning here. Bolts should be closer when ground fall potential exists. We do the same thing all the time.
Sport climbing by definition is suppose to be safe. If someone hits the ground while clipping the second or third bolt it's not a sign of the FA's boldness it's a sign he or she doesn't know how to create a safe sport route.
I've done all the moves on top rope in order to clean and determine line and bolt placement. Knowing where that hidden side pull or pocket is can make a early clip seem casual to me, so I always try to put my self in the shoes of someone who is on-sighting the route. They may not find the hold. If they don't and fall are they going to hit the deck?
We do routes several grades below our ability all the time. So I also always try to keep in mind what the moves would and clips would be like for someone climbing at their limit.
As far as too many bolts, it's a sport route on a crag littered with bolts. If Roman thinks there are too many bolts he can skip some clips. If you placed 10 bolts instead of 12 on a route would that really effect the look and feel of the climb that much??