In honor of rock season NEVER EVER EVER being over...best 5.8 lead in NY???
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Between the Gunks and the ADK there are so many great routes at this grade...plus 5.8 is a grade at which a large chunk of the climbing community leads. I'm putting an emphasis on best LEAD, which makes certain climbs stand out a little bit more.
So lets hear your top three and the reasons why! |
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Son of Easy O. Well protected, great variety of climbing and fun from the start to the end. In one pitch of course! |
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yes! Son of is a classic for sure! |
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Son of easy o done as one long pitch is one of my favorite pitches of climbing I've done at any grade. |
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One? |
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Michael Schneider wrote:One? That is a problem! In the southern region, south of the Gunks, The climb of that grade at Armonk. It Must have been given a name may be 'Ray' knows? Also at the Ardsley wall. - 'Passher By'. Along the Hudson Poison Ivy Wall at West Point - Nose The Central region, TheCool. I've not familiar with any of the areas south of the gunks. makes me curious. agree it can be hard to pick the "best". im just looking for personal favorites and reasons why. there are a ton of 8s that are great at the nears. ive only done one climb at millbrook and it was a 7. pete's is the classic 7 right next to The El. Thing at the Beer Walls really narrows it down...you must mean the one next to the other thing.... |
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son of easy o is getting lots of love already! |
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"In honor of rock season being all but over..." |
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postclimbum depression |
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Springtime. |
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While I disagree about the end of climbing season, Son of Easy O in a single pitch is definitely my favorite 5.8 at the Gunks, and maybe anywhere. Benjaminadk wrote:Between the Gunks and the ADK there are so many great routes at this grade...plus 5.8 is a grade at which a large chunk of the climbing community leads. I'm putting an emphasis on best LEAD, which makes certain climbs stand out a little bit more. I'll list my top three in no particular order: 1. Modern Times 5.8+ Gunks -obvious reasons, crazy roof and exposure for the grade, really intimidating...the only 5.8 i have ever cut feet on 2. Prelude to Overture 5.8 Upper Washbowl ADK -super exposure on the last pitch, nice crack climbing on p1 and p2 first class views, big cliff, a very unlikely line, unique 3. The El Pitchoff Chimney Cliff ADK -position and exposure on the traverse, great crack climbing on the last pitch, a beautiful natural line **ill give honorable mention to Arachnid Traction at the Creature Walls in the ADK....only because it is the hardest 5.8 i have ever done....pumpy sandbag by Tom Rosecrans...none the less a great section of jamming at the crux** So lets hear your top three and the reasons why! |
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These sorts of discussions are always fun. Seems like you never see them any more... ah, when the internet was young... |
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I said rock season is all but over!!!! i live in the adk so our getting out any given day is basically a wrap....of course climbing is possible year round depending on weather and ones willingness to freeze....ive climbed every month of year in the gunks. |
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just broke into leading 5.8 in the gunks this season. Really happy to see that my favorite climbs were much loved climbs! |
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Very Good SethG |
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I chose Birdland because the first pitch has incredibly good face climbing with a thoughtful crux, and the second pitch is completely different, with overhangs and jugs and another thoughtful crux move into a corner. 2 great pitches of 5.8. |
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Benjaminadk wrote: guys i want to hear a little bit to back up why its your favorite 5.8...I picked Springtime because of the ridiculous friction! That route is so much fun due to the type of rock and the fact no one's ever there. Oh, and the G rating! I think Rockaholic and Gamesmanship deserves mentioning too. |
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Rock season is never over. |
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I know you said lead, and I happen to be a cheerful perennial follower, but I've climbed my share of 5.8 so I'm going to chime in and agree wholeheartedly on: |
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Lisa Andrews wrote:I know you said lead, and I happen to be a cheerful perennial follower, but I've climbed my share of 5.8 so I'm going to chime in and agree wholeheartedly on: Son of Easy O Snooky's Bonnie's Roof (happy to call it an 8) And I will add: Arrow, which IMO is the most stunning piece of rock in the Gunks regardless of grade, and completes this short list of climbs your second will love you for choosing.Arrow is a cool route, GREAT rock and one I always return to but, it's basically a 1 move wonder FWIW. |
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SethG wrote:Anyway in the Gunks 5.8 is one of the premier grades...This ^^^ ... I'll add... ANYWHERE. |