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in between camalot sizes - Creek Rats!
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By notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Mar 21, 2013

in your experience, what are the "gaps" in sizes between camalot placements (C4s - not micro camalots)and what sizes fill those gaps in other companies? This is pretty much only relevant to I.C. splitter-type cracks.

Thanks!
Mike


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Mar 21, 2013

WC's friends fit perfectly in there.


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By Andrew Mayer
Mar 21, 2013
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp

NorCalNomad wrote:
WC's friends fit perfectly in there.


+1

2 friend between .75 and #1 camalot (i try to avoid this size)

2.5 friend between #1 and #2 camalot (hmm...cant think of any at the moment)

3 friend between #2 and #3 camalot (think pink at battle of the bulge and neat at optimator come to mind)

4 friend between #3 and #4 camalot (meathooks at original meat)


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By notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Mar 21, 2013

yay! perfect thanks


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By brat
Mar 21, 2013
Celebrating on Intersection Rock, JTree.

Black Metolius cams are awesome between #1 and .75 Camalots. Think Quarter of a Man.


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By notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Mar 21, 2013

the size that gets me the worst is between a new 3 and 4 C4. The old 3.5 which I covet, fits great.

I've so far managed between the .75-1.0 by usually overcaming the #1, and never (knock on wood) have had an issue between a 1-2 and a 2-3

I do wish they shifted everything a 1/4 size down with just a wee bit more overlap between a #.75 and #6 and added a #7 that fit wider than the new #6 so the blue big bro would be obsolete...
but I digress... thanks for answering the original question.


cam flame war in 3..2..1...


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By Mark Hammond
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Mar 21, 2013

Andrew nailed it. Note that he didn't list the 3.5 friend because it is basically the same as a 3 camalot. But (to reiterate) the 4 friend is like the 3.5 camalot.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Mar 21, 2013
El Chorro

Why is it only relevant at IC? I like having both friends and camalots on my harness and time i carry doubles.


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By adampeters
From Golden, Colorado
Mar 21, 2013
<a href='http://lucasmarshall.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >lucasmarshall.com</a> <br /> <br />snakewrangler

Ditto on the Black Metolius b/w #1 and .75, a crucial piece on that awful size. Also, a Gray Alien is nice for pieces b/w .4 and .5 Camelot.


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By Jason N.
From Grand Junction
Mar 21, 2013
Indy pass

Another option out there is Wired Bliss.


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By sanz
From Raleigh, NC
Mar 21, 2013
One of my first trad leads, on Ooga Chocka at Crowder's Mountain.

So what's the absolute perfect mega-rack that covers every single size variation from tiny to huge (without being excessively large - think feasible to actually carry for free climbing).


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Mar 21, 2013

+1 on the Black metolius.


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By ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Mar 21, 2013
Aesthetics

#1 friend for Middle Crack, 2 friend for Way Rambo, .2 Camelot for Burl Dog and #1 Link Cam for 9 Lives..

Just spray'n.. so hardddd.

Seriously though, everyone of these I found myself CRUX'n on without the right gear so I immediately went to Wall St. and booty'd them.


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By Andrew Mayer
Mar 21, 2013
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp

Ryan Williams wrote:
Why is it only relevant at IC? I like having both friends and camalots on my harness and time i carry doubles.


I think a better way to phrase it would be "most relevant" at IC. While carrying a set of friends and a set of camalots as doubles certainly gives you more options anywhere you climb, I would argue you can typically get away with a double set of camalots just fine.

Except at indian creek where the crack can literally be a scary tipped out size and too tight for the next size for a loooong ways (camalots). Hence the importance of having friends or another cam offering in-between sizes.


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By Andrew Mayer
Mar 21, 2013
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp

Mark Hammond wrote:
Andrew nailed it. Note that he didn't list the 3.5 friend because it is basically the same as a 3 camalot. But (to reiterate) the 4 friend is like the 3.5 camalot.


Thanks for that addition Mark. left out the 3.5 friend because I think most people will be carrying 3 camalots in that size already.


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By Wally
From Denver
Mar 21, 2013

A bit surprised by what looks like a pretty good consensus here, that you need something other than camalots to make up for the in between sizes at the creek. I have been climbing at the creek for years, with just camalots from junior sizes on up. I have always felt the overlap in the camalot sizes was sufficient so that another manufacturer's cams weren't necessary.

Surely others out there agree with this sentiment? Continue the conversation, please.

For background, most climbs I have done at the creek I have led, and I climb in the 5.10 to 5.11 range.

Climb Ohn! Wally


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By Mike
From Phoenix
Mar 21, 2013
Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get tired of this climb.  Photo by Wednesday Hugus.

NorCalNomad wrote:
WC's friends fit perfectly in there.


+2. Especially numbers 1.5, 2, & 4. While the other Friends are slightly different sizes, those 3 seem to fit perfectly in in the worst gaps of Camalots. The #1.5 fits nicely between .5 & .75 C4, the #2 is great between .75 & 1 C4, and the #4 is a nice fit between the 3 & 4 C4's.


Ryan Williams wrote:
Why is it only relevant at IC? I like having both friends and camalots on my harness and time i carry doubles.


Word. There are lots of parallel cracks in lots of places.


sanz wrote:
So what's the absolute perfect mega-rack that covers every single size variation from tiny to huge (without being excessively large - think feasible to actually carry for free climbing).


OK just for fun, assuming a standard double rack.

-1 set of C4's from .3 thru 4.
-WC Zero's # 4,& 5.
-Alien/Mastercams (take your pick) from black alien/grey mastercam thru red alien/orange mastercam.
-WC helium friends from 1.5 thru 4.
-All racked on Heliums of course.
-1 set DMM offset nuts & 1 set DMM wallnuts. Take whichever set seems appropriate.
-Any area specific gear, such as tricams, RP's/WC superlight rocks, wide gear, etc...


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