in between camalot sizes - Creek Rats!
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in your experience, what are the "gaps" in sizes between camalot placements (C4s - not micro camalots)and what sizes fill those gaps in other companies? This is pretty much only relevant to I.C. splitter-type cracks. |
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WC's friends fit perfectly in there. |
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NorCalNomad wrote:WC's friends fit perfectly in there.+1 2 friend between .75 and #1 camalot (i try to avoid this size) 2.5 friend between #1 and #2 camalot (hmm...cant think of any at the moment) 3 friend between #2 and #3 camalot (think pink at battle of the bulge and neat at optimator come to mind) 4 friend between #3 and #4 camalot (meathooks at original meat) |
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yay! perfect thanks |
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Black Metolius cams are awesome between #1 and .75 Camalots. Think Quarter of a Man. |
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the size that gets me the worst is between a new 3 and 4 C4. The old 3.5 which I covet, fits great. |
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Andrew nailed it. Note that he didn't list the 3.5 friend because it is basically the same as a 3 camalot. But (to reiterate) the 4 friend is like the 3.5 camalot. |
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Why is it only relevant at IC? I like having both friends and camalots on my harness and time i carry doubles. |
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Ditto on the Black Metolius b/w #1 and .75, a crucial piece on that awful size. Also, a Gray Alien is nice for pieces b/w .4 and .5 Camelot. |
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Another option out there is Wired Bliss. |
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So what's the absolute perfect mega-rack that covers every single size variation from tiny to huge (without being excessively large - think feasible to actually carry for free climbing). |
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+1 on the Black metolius. |
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#1 friend for Middle Crack, 2 friend for Way Rambo, .2 Camelot for Burl Dog and #1 Link Cam for 9 Lives.. |
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Ryan Williams wrote:Why is it only relevant at IC? I like having both friends and camalots on my harness and time i carry doubles.I think a better way to phrase it would be "most relevant" at IC. While carrying a set of friends and a set of camalots as doubles certainly gives you more options anywhere you climb, I would argue you can typically get away with a double set of camalots just fine. Except at indian creek where the crack can literally be a scary tipped out size and too tight for the next size for a loooong ways (camalots). Hence the importance of having friends or another cam offering in-between sizes. |
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Mark Hammond wrote:Andrew nailed it. Note that he didn't list the 3.5 friend because it is basically the same as a 3 camalot. But (to reiterate) the 4 friend is like the 3.5 camalot.Thanks for that addition Mark. left out the 3.5 friend because I think most people will be carrying 3 camalots in that size already. |
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A bit surprised by what looks like a pretty good consensus here, that you need something other than camalots to make up for the in between sizes at the creek. I have been climbing at the creek for years, with just camalots from junior sizes on up. I have always felt the overlap in the camalot sizes was sufficient so that another manufacturer's cams weren't necessary. |
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NorCalNomad wrote:WC's friends fit perfectly in there.+2. Especially numbers 1.5, 2, & 4. While the other Friends are slightly different sizes, those 3 seem to fit perfectly in in the worst gaps of Camalots. The #1.5 fits nicely between .5 & .75 C4, the #2 is great between .75 & 1 C4, and the #4 is a nice fit between the 3 & 4 C4's. Ryan Williams wrote:Why is it only relevant at IC? I like having both friends and camalots on my harness and time i carry doubles.Word. There are lots of parallel cracks in lots of places. sanz wrote:So what's the absolute perfect mega-rack that covers every single size variation from tiny to huge (without being excessively large - think feasible to actually carry for free climbing).OK just for fun, assuming a standard double rack. -1 set of C4's from .3 thru 4. -WC Zero's # 4,& 5. -Alien/Mastercams (take your pick) from black alien/grey mastercam thru red alien/orange mastercam. -WC helium friends from 1.5 thru 4. -All racked on Heliums of course. -1 set DMM offset nuts & 1 set DMM wallnuts. Take whichever set seems appropriate. -Any area specific gear, such as tricams, RP's/WC superlight rocks, wide gear, etc... |