Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Hallett Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anderson-Magill 
Better than Love T 
Center Route T 
Collins Donn T 
Culp-Bossier T 
Direct Second Buttress T 
Englishman's Route T 
Finch Route T 
Great Dihedral T 
Hesse-Ferguson T 
In Between (aka Right Dihedral) T 
Jackin' the Johnson T,S 
Jackson-Johnson T 
Kor-Van Tongeren T 
Love at First Sight T 
Love Route T 
Northcutt-Carter T 
Second Buttress Tour T 
Standard Route aka 1st Buttress Route T 
Storm Riders T 
Unsorted Routes:

In Between (aka Right Dihedral) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,606
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Oct 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: This photo was copied from Paddy McCarthy, as it s...

Description 

This is a great two pitch variation "In Between" the Hesse-Ferguson and the Culp-Bossier. Start with the Hesse-Ferguson for its first long pitch.

1) From the grassy ledge, step right into a white, right-facing dihedral and climb to its top below a large roof band. Turn the roof on the left side, then make a spicey traverse above the roof's lip approximately 50 feet to the right and belay around an arete in a hanging, right-facing corner. This pitch is sustained 5.8, and the traverse offers one place for protection (which used to have a #2.5 Friend fixed under a flake about midway through). The quality of the traverse is superb, but it takes a good head and some route-finding to link the correct edges and nubbins. (5.8 S, 165 feet).

2) Climb the beautiful, hanging, right-facing corner above you, with awesome stemming and fingerlocks, and take the pitch to the large terrace at mid-height on the wall. (5.9, 140 feet).

Finish with any combination of routes on the upper wall.

Protection 

Standard rack. Double ropes may be useful to eliminate rope-drag on the traverse. One might also consider belaying the traverse as a separate pitch, but this is not absolutely necessary.


Photos of In Between (aka Right Dihedral) Slideshow Add Photo
Same photo by Paddy McCarthy, but as mentioned, without the yellow line.  When comparing the two, it's pretty easy to see where this climb is.  The right-facing corner which takes you to the big terrace at mid-height on the wall is worthy.
BETA PHOTO: Same photo by Paddy McCarthy, but as mentioned, wi...

Comments on In Between (aka Right Dihedral) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Be Esperanza
From: Asheville, NC
Aug 13, 2007

I did this as a variation to the Culp but reached the traverse differently. It took us two pitches to reach the pink slab. My partner belayed at top of the dihedral in an area of crappy rock. I then pulled to the right around an arete onto the slab. I thought it protected well enough...maybe a piece every 10-15 feet. The fixed cam was still there. Both this and the next dihedral pitch are rated 5.9 in Gillett's guide and felt soft to me.
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 14, 2008

Thanks for the comment Brian. I climbed this maybe 10 years prior to posting the route, so my memory was a little vague, especially on how well the traverse protected. I figured it was better to make it sound spicier than maybe it is (according to your comment on the protection), just for climbers who aren't as comfortable with run-outs or traverses.