Type: Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,321 total · 16/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Oct 1, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a great two pitch variation "In Between" the Hesse-Ferguson and the Culp-Bossier. Start with the Hesse-Ferguson for its first long pitch.

1) From the grassy ledge, step right into a white, right-facing dihedral and climb to its top below a large roof band. Turn the roof on the left side, then make a spicey traverse above the roof's lip approximately 50 feet to the right and belay around an arete in a hanging, right-facing corner. This pitch is sustained 5.8, and the traverse offers one place for protection (which used to have a #2.5 Friend fixed under a flake about midway through). The quality of the traverse is superb, but it takes a good head and some route-finding to link the correct edges and nubbins. (5.8 S, 165 feet).

2) Climb the beautiful, hanging, right-facing corner above you, with awesome stemming and fingerlocks, and take the pitch to the large terrace at mid-height on the wall. (5.9, 140 feet).

Finish with any combination of routes on the upper wall.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack. Double ropes may be useful to eliminate rope-drag on the traverse. One might also consider belaying the traverse as a separate pitch, but this is not absolutely necessary.

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