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In Beaune/Dijon/Burgundy area September 8th-9th
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By tlewin
Aug 8, 2014
I'll be very near Beaune for a week from September 3rd-September 10th for a wedding. I'll likely be busy with wedding activities until Sunday, but would love to explore the climbing after it's all done.

I've got a full rack (Gunks rack, that is), and can bring rope, too, though I'd rather pack light if possible.

Would anyone like to climb those dates? I'm comfortable leading up to 6b/6b+, following up to 7b, but would just be happy to be outside. I'm up for trad, sport, bouldering, whatever!

Thanks,
-Tom

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By tlewin
Aug 18, 2014
At the least, does anyone have beta on where I should try to climb? I'll be very close to these coordinates: 4658'06.1"N 448'14.2"E

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By Benj84
Aug 18, 2014
hello Tom,
I spend a good amount of time in burgundy but I am not sure I'll be around in the beginning of sept, Ill know by the end of august and let you know if you're still interested as I might be passing through.
As for the spots the best site I have climbed at in burgundy is Cormot Grand, its a solid 120 foot limestone crag with some excellent climbing between 5.10-5.13.
Another site in the region that is apparently excellent but that I haven't tested is Vieux Chateau which is a granite crag but that's the only precision that I am compotent to give.
Two other solid sites are Bouilland and Arcenat which are right next to the villages of the same names, they have the added bonus of a free downloadable topo online @ foudegrimpe.canalblog.com.
If its cold, which risks to be the case the "winter crag" would be Chambolle Musigny as its a southern exposed and has no trees infront, the rock quality is very solid, it dries in about 2 hours and its pretty peaceful, but there are less than a hundred routes and none of them are larger than 50 feet.
It should be noted that all of the sites that I mentioned are bolted sport sites, I know of 1 crag in burgundy near gevry chambertin that isn't bolted but I wouldnt make the detour, basically I'm saying its not worth lugging your trad gear across the pond.
So again depending on how a couple of other projects Im working on pan out I may be passing through in which case itd be rad to meet up, otherwise best of luck and dont hesitate to pm me if you need more topo for the region.
Have an excellent time !
Benjamin

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By tlewin
Aug 25, 2014
Thanks Benjamin, that's super helpful. Leaving my trad rack behind will make packing much easier.

Cormot Grand looks fantastic, and is only 20 min away from where I'll be staying.

If I can find a partner I will check out the crags you mention. Let me know if your projects pan out such that you're able to climb, and thanks again.

-Tom

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