In a Pinch aka Genie
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I put up this route in October 1994. I used Aid and rated the route A2. I placed 1 piton while trying to exit the route in the dark (the wide groove just below the chains was full of loose blocks, which we removed while placing the anchor chains). The route can now be done all clean. I do not free climb this difficult of route. I know of several persons (Tom Rega, Jay Kinghorn, and Gerald Huang) who have climbed it on top rope and all said the route was good and agree it is 5.11c. The crux is trying to pull the bulge right off the ledge 12 feet up. Crux is the same for aiding. Those who have top roped it say there is no place for protection, as any decent placement takes away a good jam. Be warned that this route is like jamming your fingers and hands between 2 cheese graters, so TAPE UP WELL, and please pick up the shredded tape when you leave.
Route takes stoppers and small cams (TCU, Aliens). 2 bolt anchor with chains installed at top of route (Jay Kinghorn and myself installed the following spring).
|Comments on In a Pinch aka Genie
From: Golden, CO
Jul 3, 2003
Burly line... Any beta on getting into the crack? Compared to Sneak Attack and Broken Arrow, this climb is much harder (even on toprope). If you are working this route on toprope, watch out for your rope wedging into the crack above you.
|By Jim Cormier|
Oct 31, 2003
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Let's see, when I belayed Tom Rega, who top roped it, and from my numerous attempts to pull the crux: Tom says you need to think right-handed (Tom was a lefty), concentrate on the right side of the crack, and I think you need to feel around underneath the bulge and if memory serves me there is a small crack you can lieback (I could be confused as I have been living in Southern Arizona for some time now).