Impulse Drive  5.8- PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.8- [details] FA:  August, 2011: Jay Harrison, Tom Lane New Route:  Yes Season:  May - Nov Submitted By:  Jay Harrison on Sep 15, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Climb the ramp to the corner and (crux) work up onto the ledge with a parallogram-shaped, ten-foot tall block leaning on it.
Climb the block to its top, then step into the chimney to the left. Turn facing "outward" and pull up onto a good ledge. Walk around this onto the main face, joining Pinch an Inch for the last 25'.
The crux move is protectable with a large cam, though the flaring crack doesn't lend said pro much credence.
This was an impulse-driven send (hence its name), performed with bad footwear, minimal cleaning, and even less forethought.

NOTE: A lot of ice forms over the lip of the Birthday Corner early in the season. It falls from >30m up, landing among the base of all the Amphitheatre area routes. Even after the main winter's accumulation has fallen, nightly formations continue to bombard the area. Be watchful, wear a helmet, and if big ice is looming above on that crystalline spring morning, maybe climb somewhere else.

Location 

In the Amphitheatre, 10' right of the right-facing corner right of Amphitheatre Crack and Pinch an Inch, at a left-rising, narrow ramp leading to a right-facing corner with a wide, flaring crack below a ledge.
Use the 2-bolt anchor at the top to descend.

Protection 

Cams to 4", several long slings, nuts and Tricams.
2-bolt anchor at the top, 1 bolt on Pinch an Inch, which this rt. joins.