Short. Bouldery, slopy start to a horizontal crack. Traverse left on crack and make big move to verticle crack pocket. Put first piece in here. Continue up twin cracks making balancy moves. Another Crux after twins.
Just to the left of UNR Crack. Horizontal crack about 8 feet of the ground with slanting verticle crack coming off that.
Mar 2, 2009
It's much quicker to lead this climb then to set up a top rope. 3 pieces is plenty - blue and yellow TCU, plus a #1 friend
|By Ron Anderson|
Dec 31, 2009
hehe,,,,picture, its june 1978. We were having an easy sunny mornin at river rock...The scent of heady erb wafted lazily ... There was this little wall on the left side of the crag that had been calling me so now was the time to put it to bed.....As i began (remeber, this is 78, ebs,,,and a few tiny wired stoppers lol)and got in a piece about fifteen feet up which was a 1 1/2 stopper...I was a bit gripped,,, then heard a strange voice talking to other people saying,,,"its quite improbable that hes going to make it" !!???? WTF??? I glanced down and there was the whole UNR climbing club which had invaded our quiet ventures!!!!! I gave out a loud answer that went something like "MY ASS IM NOT GONNA MAKE IT!"--and porceeded to chew up the rest placing only one other tiny stopper near the top!!! Upon fixing an anchor, i yelled down to my buddy to lash on the bong cuz i needed more magic!!! He cracked up, and the looks we got from "the club" were much like charlie manson got!!! The scuttled back over to the right leaving us once again in peace LMAO!!! I just loved those days...... Hence the name "improbable".....
From: THA WEST COAST
Feb 13, 2011
Great description, Ron. Take comfort in the fact that similar shenanigans still happen 30 years later...
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Apr 10, 2011
Yes, great FA story. Shutting the hecklers up with a send feels pretty good!
Oh yeah, the other day we did a variant on this climb by avoiding the right crack. It definitely adds a little oomph! Very enjoyable eliminate.
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
I really like this climb. A bold and difficult start, thin protection and delicate climbing till it gets a little blocky on top. Pure Fun