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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type: Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Page Views: 566
Submitted By: susan peplow on Jan 28, 2007
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Slipped before first bolt!...Sucks!!

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Route starts on broken corner just up and left of the chimney. Start on slabby section and move upward following bolt line. 3rd and 4th bolts provide a bit steeper section with good clipping stances continue up to slightly bulging top out.


Second route from left on southern side of crag and just left of chimney section. SCSG 3rd edition route 777


6 bolts to shut anchor

Photos of Improbable Slideshow Add Photo
Will working the moves of Improbable in full winter sun.
Will working the moves of Improbable in full winte...
Russ going for the anchors on Improbable.
Russ going for the anchors on Improbable.
Making the final moves & looking forward to clipping those pre-hung draws on top of Improbable.  Photo by Will S
Making the final moves & looking forward to clippi...
Nelson leading Improbable
Nelson leading Improbable
Comments on Improbable Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 28, 2007

Guidebook indicates grade on this route as 5.11c *. For the record myself and two other partners feel this route is more like .10c** unless of course it was "Jacks Canyon, AZ" where the grade would be 11c******.

If you're in for an ego boost go lead this rascal before it gets downgraded for good.

Excellent route and worth doing again and again. Protects well and don't let the "grade" get to your head and all clips are from good stances.


By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 28, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Good route. Start is low angle and chossy but improves just in time for the business section. Top out can be done left, right or center. I went right and almost pitched off the summit slopers. Seemed more positive out left. YMMV.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 28, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Rating seemed a little out of whack, even when compared strictly to routes within NJC. Seemed more like .10d on the New Jack scale. As Russ said, you can finish it from the last bolt either left, right (rocking around the arete), or straight up. I went straight, which does have better positive finishing holds on cool quartz crytals above/behind the shuts.

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Well as far as the rating goes, as all other routes I'm sure it depends on the beta you use to climb the route. I'm by no means a seasoned .11 climber, but this definitely had some .11 moves on it for me. Maybe my beta just sucked, but I hung from every bolt on the upper section.... The move past the third bolt for me was a small left hand pinch hold and left foot press to the small edge under the 4th bolt - definitely felt .11 something any ways. I'm sure there is other beta which is better than what I did. I guess it really depends on the beta the first ascent person used. My two cents.