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Impotence 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Sal Paradise
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 334
Submitted By: portercassidy on Nov 19, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Impotence route directly in middle of photo.

Description 

Clip some bolts on the slightly overhanging face.


Location 

It is in between The Diving Board and Jack.


Protection 

Quickdraws, this utilizes the same anchors as The Diving Board, although it is best TR'ed with an extension.



Photos of Impotence Slideshow Add Photo
First bolt on Impotence can be seen just above small overhang.  Undercling in crack to left under ledge for safe/easy clip.
BETA PHOTO: First bolt on Impotence can be seen just above sma...
Comments on Impotence Add Comment
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By Alex Garhart
Nov 20, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Really junky rock for the 1st half and then better rock with some fun movement. Definitely extend your anchor for the TR.

By Matt Rauen
Sep 21, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Lots of fun. The lower junky rock lost a big flake just before the first bolt. I found the route pumpy probably because of the slight overhang, but it was a fun route with some fun moves. Definitely extend the top rope with at least 4 foot slings.