|The Bastille - W Face
The obscure tour continues. Are you bored? Looking for another route to touch virgin-to-you rock in this crag paradise? "This route climbs the bulge and crack just to the right of P1 of Neon Lights" according to Rossiter's guide. Find this, um, er, ah, well, different pitch of rock high on the west side of the Bastille between Neon Lights' and Voodoo's first pitches.
Doubt this one sees Bastille-like action or even pitch one of Neon Lights traffic. This has scaly rock, a tough start, a high step, a layback, for an appetizer. It gives you loads of respect for those who went before you. Then angle right towards an inviting roof. The sort-of-pockets in the roof above feels stiff for 5.9 and seems more like mortal-5.10b. Whew, give me a moment to catch my breath. Oh yeah, and there isn't much pro for this bit. Or, maybe Jim was smarter and didn't go this way. Continue on above with less-challenging terrain to the walk-off ledge and don't knock any of those stacked blocks over near the top, please.
A TR might be less bold but possibly wiser.
probably best to TR, or a standard Eldo rack
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2002
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I did this one just a few months back and my overall assesment was that it was just plain dirty and flakey- which would have left me with the impression that it would be better as a TR- presuming for a moment that it would be worth the effort of setting one up. However, it isn't. I concur with the bomb rating Leo gives it. There are higher quality routes that are just as obscure.