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Imperial Wizard 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FA(toprope): Ken Nichols, March 1986
Page Views: 900
Submitted By: Jim O'Brien on Jan 16, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Winter shot of the "main face" of Cathole. The bus...

Description 

One of the best face climbs around, sustained powerfull climb with not so great rests. Crux is getting to the overlap and pulling through. Great movement, figuring out the sequence is the fun of it all.


Location 

Blankish face to the left of Danzing, fingers are small and somewhat crimpy, fun project to test your limits. IW follows the line up the center of this face, to the left of the ice in the crack. The crux is at the right facing flake just under the small roof, pull through, step left and continue up the obvious line to the top, if you've got the juice.


Protection 

TR set up is good with gear. No fixed anchors.



Comments on Imperial Wizard Add Comment
Show which comments
By Clint Cummins
From: Palo Alto, CA
May 4, 2009

FA(toprope): Ken Nichols, March 1986

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Feb 28, 2012

Looks like a great line to add some bolts...

By Leif
Apr 7, 2013

I like leading face climbs. Just sayin.

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Apr 7, 2013

Just paint some pretend bolts on the face and do some make believe clipping. Nobody chops paintjobs in CT.