Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Dire Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Conn Route T 
Engagement, The S 
Impeachable Offense T 
Punching In A Dream S 
Snakebite Evangelist S 
Unsorted Routes:

Impeachable Offense 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Engle '87
Page Views: 826
Submitted By: Will Buckman on Dec 11, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Steve-O on the start of Impeachable Offense. This...
Check NPS for Closures

Description 

Found 25 feet left of The Engagement (bolted line on eastern side), Impeachable Offense starts with an overhanging dihedral for the first 20 feet. Feet are solid and there are many good fingerlocks with a right hand flake for the hands. After fighting through the overhang, step right ten feet and follow a perfect hand crack which leads to a overhanging roof. One might choose to set up an intermediate belay (3.5 camalot would be helpful)before the hand crack to avoid rope drag but is not necessary. The roof after the handcrack is not to strenuous, stepping left when possible keeps the route from becoming overwhelming. Build an anchor on a good ledge with chockstones or creative gear placements. Beware of slinging the massive detached rock found at the end of the pitch! For the second pitch, there is one bolt that protects the north-eastern arete. It is found 15 feet above the belay ledge and does not inspire confidence (SMC button-head that spins). Needles style crystals offer good holds to fixed anchors at the top, just keep a steady head and have fun. A two rope rappel necessary to reach the ground, throwing the ropes to the north-west will bring one down to a nice clearing. This is a spectacular climb worthy of repeating.


Protection 

Protection is consitently available. Pitch one takes small cams (.3-.5 camalots) and nuts for the overhanging dihedral at the beginning. A short, but beautiful, handcrack takes as many #2 camalots as desired (no more than two or three), and the final overhanging roof has solid gear in the sm/med cam size.



Photos of Impeachable Offense Slideshow Add Photo
Brit makes his way up the thin hand crack with some slightly wider spots.  I set a belay immediately after the dihedral so I could see him following and see him on this section.  You don't see many of these perfect splitters in the Black Hills.
Brit makes his way up the thin hand crack with som...
Me and Brit on the summit of Dire Spire.  What a great climb!
Me and Brit on the summit of Dire Spire. What a g...
Comments on Impeachable Offense Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Klooster
From: Arvada, CO
Dec 12, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I followed this route behind BJ and it was awesome. Impeachable Offense is not often done, the hand crack was beautiful and the summit was very unlike any other summit I have been on at Rushmore.

By mike gibson
From: Rapid City, SD
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

rotten crappy rock at bottom.