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Immaculate Virgin 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Todd Swain and John Thackray, 1986 pitch 1 Jim McCarthy and John Reppy 1967 pitch 2
Page Views: 553
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Oct 23, 2008
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Johanna climbing the 2nd pitch of Immaculate Virgi...
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  • Description 

    This is a good link up of the first pitch of Immaculate Conception, and the second pitch of Son of Bitchy Virgin.

    The start is located at a creaky flake just right of Son of Bitchy Virgin's right-facing corner. Begin by climbing the flake and pulling a short roof to a ledge. Continue straight up the face towards a slung block and belay here (or on gear above).

    For a second pitch, climb straight up the face following the best clean holds (trend right; some might find this section a little run out...it gets a PG rating in the Williams guide) before jug-hauling the last bit to the GT ledge. Rap to the ground in two ropes, or to the slung block with one.

    Overall a nice (2 star - Williams) route to do in you are in the area.


    Protection 

    Mostly standard gear...saving small stuff (blue and black aliens) for the second pitch. One rap with doubles or two raps with a single.



    Photos of Immaculate Virgin Slideshow Add Photo
    P2 of Immaculate/Son of Bitchy Virgin
    P2 of Immaculate/Son of Bitchy Virgin
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    By doligo
    Jun 28, 2010
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

    Nice climb. There isn't much gear above the roof till the slung flake on P1, but the climbing is easy. P2 is on a serious side of PG13. Small aliens will be helpful - tiny flaring shallow horizontals in couple of spots till you hit the piton up top.

    By Logan Schiff
    From: NY, NY
    May 28, 2013

    Nice underrated climb. Definitely runout on second pitch but probably no harder than 5.5.